Prevent Fires – Clean Your Dryer Duct & Vent

Leave a comment

One of the most common causes of house fires is accumulated lint in clothes dryer filters and ducts that ignites from over-heating.  It is very important to keep your clothes dryer and its exhaust duct cleaned out.

Your Clothes Dryer is a pretty simple appliance, but it can cause devastating problems if you don’t maintain it properly.  When you dry your wet clothes, you take them out of the washing machine and put them into the dryer.  When you turn on the dryer, three things happen:  heat is produced (either from electric elements or from gas burners), a fan blows warm air into the dryer compartment, and the dryer drum goes around, tumbling the wet clothes so that the warm air gets evenly distributed around them.  Your dryer has an exhaust port usually  located down at the bottom of the back side.  That exhaust port should be connected to an exhaust duct, which in turn should be connected to an exhaust vent located on the exterior wall of your home.  The warm air that comes into the dryer picks up moisture and is blown outside the home through the exhaust vent.  As that warm, moist air leaves the dryer on its way to the exhaust vent, it first goes through the dryer’s lint filter and then travels through the exhaust duct.

In the process of drying wet clothes, your clothes dryer tumbles the wet clothes.  The tumbling action causes lint – very fine fuzzy stuff made from fabric fibers – to be released from your clothes.  The lint moves with the air that gets blown out of the dryer.  Some of the lint collects in the lint filter and a lot of the lint passes through or around the lint filter into the exhaust duct.  The lint is moist and heavy – it’s not like dry dust.  As it moves through the exhaust duct it sticks to the inside of the duct.  As some of the wet and heavy lint reaches the exhaust vent, some of it sticks to the inside of the vent and to the inside of the flapper.  Over time quite a lot of lint can accumulate inside the exhaust duct and on the inside of the vent flapper.  This is not good.  As more lint accumulates inside the duct and vent, the air moving through the duct and vent slows down and consequently does not adequately remove the moisture from your dryer.  Sometimes, so much lint accumulates on the inside of a vent flapper that the air trying to exit the vent can’t even blow the flapper open.  As the air flow through the duct and vent is reduced, you may find that it takes longer to dry your clothes.

You may think that taking longer to dry your clothes is a problem.  Actually it is a symptom of a much bigger problemlint accumulation in the exhaust duct.  Excessive lint accumulation can become a serious problem because lint is very ignitable – it catches fire very easily.  You can prove this to yourself by taking some lint out of the lint filter and placing it in a metal container, like an empty coffee can.  Then strike a match and place the flame near the lint.  You’ll see the lint catch fire immediately and burn very quickly.  Remember, your dryer has a heat source – red hot electric elements or a gas flame.  Your dryer is supposed to get hot, but not too hot.  If lint accumulates in the exhaust duct and reduces the flow of air out of the dryer, heat can build up inside the dryer.  If the heat gets too high, the excessive dryer lint can ignite, which would start a house fire.  The US Consumer Product Safety Commission has  posted an article about this fire hazard on their web site: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5022.html

This Is What You Should Do

1 –          Every time you put clothes in your dryer, before you start the dryer, pull out the lint filter and clean out the lint on the filter and in the filter compartment.

2 –          If you haven’t cleaned the dryer exhaust port in a while, you should to that.  Pull your dryer out from the wall – be careful not to kink the gas line.  Get behind the dryer and disconnect the exhaust duct from the exhaust port.  Then get your vacuum cleaner – a shop vac works really well for this – and suck up as much lint as you can see in the  exhaust port.  Stick the vacuum hose into the port as far as it will go, allowing it to suck out any lint that is inside  the port.

3 –          Now, while you’ve got the exhaust duct disconnected from the dryer, use your vacuum to suck out as much lint as possible from inside the duct.  Again, run the vacuum hose into the duct as far as it will reach.  If your exhaust  duct is long and made up of sections, you may need to separate the sections from each other and clean each section.  It may not be easy to disconnect the duct from the vent.  Sometimes that connection is very difficult to get to and work with.  If that’s the case with your situation, don’t worry – you can clean the vent from outside your home.

4 –          Now, go outside to where the exhaust vent is located.  Take your vacuum cleaner with you.  You’ll also need something like an old tooth brush or a long-handled screw driver – something you can use to reach up inside the vent with.  Clean away as much lint as possible from outside the vent, on both sides of the flapper, and if you can reach your hand into the duct, get in there and loosen up as much lint as possible.  CAUTION: before you do this, make sure there aren’t any wasps or bees in the vent or inside the duct.  After you have loosened up as much lint as possible inside the vent and duct, use your vacuum to suck it all out.

5 –          Put everything back together.  Before you do this, however, inspect the exhaust vent to make sure the flapper is working properly.  Replace the vent if necessary.  Then inspect the exhaust duct.  Make sure it’s not smashed or bent or has holes in it.  If so, install new duct material.  The best duct material to use is the rigid-wall type instead of the flexible type.

Before you do this maintenance, it’s a good idea to unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet.  If you have a gas dryer, it should not be necessary to disconnect the gas line.  If it looks like you need to disconnect the gas line in order to clean your exhaust duct, you should call a dryer service technician or your gas company for assistance.

This is just a basic home maintenance project but it’s a pretty important one.  It can prevent a house fire.

Home Warranty Plans Compared

Leave a comment

In September of this year the Minnesota Association of Realtors issued a new Purchase Agreement (PA) document.  One of the new features of that new PA is found on lines 180-185.  It is titled “Home Protection/Warranty Plan” and advises sellers and buyers to investigate the various home protection/warranty plans available.  The PA requires the buyer and seller to state whether or not a plan will be obtained and who is going to pay for it.  Or, the parties can indicate that no plan will be part of the PA.

This is one Realtor who adamantly believes this addition to the PA is a mistake, was ill-conceived, and is very poorly presented.  The new PA calls these plans “home protection” and “warranty” plans, probably because that’s what the companies that sell them call them.  But these plans don’t protect homes one bit.  Nor are they warranties – they don’t guarantee a thing.  They are service plans.  They absorb some of the cost to repair or replace some items in a home that break.  The purchase agreement is not supposed to be a marketing tool for the companies that sell these plans – but now, that’s what it is.

If a seller decides to activate and pay for one of these plans when they put their home up for sale, and extends that plan to the buyer of their home, I’m all for that.  That seller has already decided that the cost of the plan is simply another selling expense and not a seller concession requested by a buyer.  It doesn’t count against the buyer in negotiations.  But the new PA baits buyers into erroneously thinking that they can request a plan and have the seller pay for it.  Even if the PA shows that the seller is going to pay for a plan, in reality the buyer pays.  If a seller agrees to pay for a plan that costs, say, $400, that means the seller would have accepted $400 less for their home if they didn’t have to pay for a plan.  So in this example, just like when a seller pays for a buyer’s closing costs, the price – not the value – of the home has been increased by $400.

If a buyer decides to purchase one of the plans on their own, it’s none of the seller’s business.  What if the buyer indicates on the PA that they are going to purchase a plan at a cost of $400 – now the seller knows the buyer has an extra $400 – maybe the seller wants that money instead of letting some home warranty company get it.

Well, you get the point – I don’t like the fact that this is in the new PA.

But, it is.  And as a buyer’s broker I decided I’d better get prepared to answer the inevitable question my clients will have: Which One Should I Get?  I can’t tell my clients that they should or shouldn’t buy a plan – it’s their money, their home, their risk.  Nor can I tell my clients which plan they should get.  I’ll give them copies of the sample contracts to read and review – well in advance of decision time.  But I know they’re not going to read them, there are too many other fun things to do when you’re looking for a home to buy.  In an effort to help my clients, I read and analyzed the four plans that I am familiar with.  The breakdown of what each has to offer follows below.  Read it, then decide for yourself.

These service plans are not insurance plans.  They don’t cover things like fire or water damage, or accidents.  However, when you’re deciding whether to buy one and which one to buy, in a way you’re going to think as though you’re buying insurance.  You’re going to observe the condition of the components of the home you want to buy and then you’re going to ask yourself, “How likely is it that this particular component is going to fail in the next 12 months?”  If the likelihood is high and the cost to fix it will be at least $500, then you may want to buy a plan that will cover that component.  If you think the likelihood is low that components in the home will fail during the next 12 months or if they do that the cost to fix them is less than $500, then you might decide the cost of a plan outweighs the risk.

The plan contracts are lengthy and consist of only fine print and long lists of exclusions, restrictions, and limitations.  Likewise, this blog post is long, very long.  But a topic like this cannot be covered without going into details, yet I don’t represent for a moment that this analysis is dead accurate or complete.  You still need to read each contract and evaluate them relative to the specific home you are going to buy.  It’ll take some time and your brain will hurt when you’re finished.  The plan contracts are much broader than what’s necessary for my Twin Cities clients.  So in an effort to make this analysis a little easier to digest, I pared down the information to better suit my typical home buyer clients.

Plan Names:       Here are the names of the four companies that I am familiar with that sell plans in Minnesota:  AHS, HMS, HSA, HWA.  Not much creativity in their names.  Maybe there’s a marketing reason to that, but it escapes me.

Residential Type:             All of the plans I evaluated are for existing (used, resale) single family residences, whether owner occupied or rental property.  AHS, HMS, and HWA single family plans also cover condos and townhomes.  HSA will cover condos, but for $30 less.  Their price list does not show townhome coverage as available.  The plan companies also offer plans for new homes, but I did not evaluate those plans.

Plans & Prices:   Each company offers one or more plans plus one or more additional options.  You could buy a basic plan or you could buy the whole enchilada, or something in between.  Because each plan has unique features, it’s impossible to do an apples-to-apples comparison.  Based upon my experiences with my buyers over the years, I compared plans that have the features that I’d guess my buyers would want.  These are the plans I evaluated:

AHS – Core Coverage Plan ($432) plus the Flexplan Option for refrigerator, washer, & dryer ($102).  The plan plus option total cost is $534.

HMS – offers a base plan for $425.  For $20 more they offer roof and foundation coverage, but their sample contract does not describe these coverages, so I did not evaluate them.  When I asked the local marketing rep for information about their plan, he told me that when my buyer purchases an HMS plan for $425, HMS will pay me $60, so I need to send them only $365.  I take that to mean that the real price is $365.  HMS has an interesting feature called the Preventative Maintenance Benefit – after the first 9 months, if you have not placed any claims, they will pay $100 toward an AC or heating system maintenance service.

HSA – offers one plan at two different prices, depending on the “deductible” amount.  If the deductible is $75, the plan costs $439.  If the deductible is $100, the plan costs $419.

HWA – offers three plans and several options.  I evaluated their Platinum plan which costs $400 and has a $100 service fee.

Service Call Fee:               If you have one of these plans, when you call for service on some item in your home, it will cost you a service fee.  Some of the plans call the fee a deductible, but it’s not really a deductible because you will be charged the service fee even if work is not performed.  Also, with most of the plans, you will pay the service fee to each trade contractor who is involved in the work.  For instance, if your furnace needs to be replaced and some electrical work needs to be done for the new furnace, you’ll pay a service fee to the heating contractor and also to the electrical contractor.  HMS does not do this.  They only charge one service fee of $100 per service call, no matter how many service contractors are involved.  AHS charges a $60 trade service fee for each service contractor.  HSA offers their plan at two different prices, depending on the service fee amount.  If the plan costs $439, then the service fee is $75.  If the plan costs $419, then the service fee is $100.  HWA also offers two service fees.  If you want to pay only a $50 fee you can, but the plan’s coverage is less than if you selected a plan that charges a $100 service fee.

Coverage Period:             Generally speaking these are 1-year plans.  They typically start on the date of closing and expire one year later.  The exception is HWA – their plan is a 13-month plan.

Coverage:           These plans are “repair or replace” plans.  The plans all promise to fix covered items, even if that means replacing them with new ones.  However, the plans do differ in exactly what they will replace items with.  AHS, HSA, and HWA all say they will replace with items of similar features, capacity, and efficiency.  HMS says it will replace with base models.  All of the plans say they reserve the right to offer a homeowner cash in lieu of repairing or replacing an item.

Conditions for Coverage:             The standard that must be met to qualify for coverage is that the item that needs service must be inoperable or malfunctioning due to normal wear and tear.  If it was damaged or misused, it’s not covered.  If the item malfunctions due to insufficient maintenance and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  Not so with the other three plans.  If the item malfunctions within the first 30 days of coverage due to rust or corrosion, and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  The other plans make you wait 30 days before rust coverage kicks in.  Three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be within the confines of the main foundation or garage.  The HMS plan simply says that an item must be in the home (no mention as to whether an item in the garage qualifies for coverage, so assume it does not).  And three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be working at the time the plan starts.  But the AHS plan does not draw that line.

Non-Covered Items:       This is important.  These plans are full of exclusions, limitations, and restrictions.  The plans list items that are covered and the wording is very specific.  Then, they go on to make a blanket statement of what is not covered: anything not stated as covered.  So the only items that are covered are the things that are specifically listed.  If it’s not listed, it’s not covered.  Also, most of the plans state that they won’t cover things like damages that result from a service contractor’s service or delays in service, or for faulty workmanship by a service contractor, even one that they selected.

What’s Not Covered?     With all the plans, coverage does not include routine maintenance, or defective items, or removal and disposal of old items, or damage due to accidents, fire, or freezing.  The AHS plan also states that damage due to mold, mildew, and pests is not covered.  Also not covered would be modifications that need to be done in order to accommodate a new replacement item.  And when replacing items with new ones, the plans won’t pay for upgrades or to match colors, models, dimensions, or brands.  With some of the plans, coverage for some exclusions can be purchased at additional costs.

Maximum Coverage Limits:         Unless it’s hidden someplace where I just couldn’t find it, the AHS contract makes no mention of coverage limits.  The other three plans definitely do.  The other three plans (HMS, HSA, HWA) limit the coverage per claim to $5,000.  HSA limits it lifetime coverage to $25,000 while HMS and HWA have $15,000 lifetime coverage limits.

Claims Process:                With all of the plans, if you experience a problem with a covered item in your home, you first need to call your plan company.  They all have toll-free numbers that are staffed 24/7.  The next step varies somewhat among the plan companies.  With AHS, a service contractor will contact you to set an appointment.  With HMS and HSA, you will contact a service contractor from a list of approved contractors.  HWA will select a service contractor for you.  What’s important is that you need to read about and be aware of the exact process set forth by your plan company.  If you don’t follow their process they probably will not cover the repairs.

Home Service Plans – Buyer Coverage for existing (used, resale) single family homes

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Heat Covered The main source of heat to the home or to a room including components, plenum, electrical, & ducts; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system 1 primary heating system: central air, hot water, or electric baseboard; Fan motors, burners, heat exchangers, thermostats; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system Forced air systems; Electric baseboard; Thermostats; Humidifiers; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system All components & parts necessary for the operation of the system; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system
Heat Not Covered Fireplaces; Wood burners; Air filters; Electronic air cleaners; Flues, vents, chimneys; Grills, registers; Humidifiers; Dehumidifiers; Garage heaters Fireplaces; Chimneys, flues; Asbestos insulated pipes; Humidifiers; Filters, electrostatic filters; Space heaters Fireplaces & wood burning equipment; Chimneys; Flue liners; Air filters & cleaners; Space heaters; HRVs Baseboard casings; Fireplaces; Wood stoves; Filters; Electronic air cleaners; Registers, grills; Flues, vents; Humidifiers; Space heaters
Ductwork Covered Leaks or breaks in ducts from heating or AC unit to attachment at registers/grills Accessible ductwork Ductwork from furnace to register Accessible ducts from heating unit to point of attachment at registers/grills
Ductwork Not Covered Registers, grills, insulation, dampers, improperly sized ducts Asbestos insulated ductwork; Inaccessible ductwork Improperly sized ductwork Registers/grills; Asbestos-insulated ducts; Flues & vents; Diagnostic testing

Be Aware: If the home you plan to buy has hot water or steam heat, as many homes do in the Twin Cities, the most these service plan companies will spend to fix or repair the system is $1,500.  That doesn’t go very far if you’re in need of a new boiler.  If your forced air heating system has an electronic air filter, also common in our area, it’s not covered.  Only HSA covers humidifiers attached to the furnace, which are common and often recommended for indoor comfort.

AHS HMS HSA HWA

Air Conditioning Covered

Ducted AC units Centrally ducted AC; Air handlers, fan motors, controls, compressors, condensers, coils, refrigerant, thermostats; Up to 3 wall units if primary cooling system Electric AC units; Repair if possible; If replacement required, will replace with 13 SEER equipment Ducted AC systems: all components & parts; Repair/replacement with 13 SEER equipment

Air Conditioning Not Covered

Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Improperly sized units Window units; condensate pumps; energy management systems Non-ducted wall & window ACs; Modifications for new AC equipment Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Condensate pumps; Improperly sized units

Be Aware: Window AC units are not covered, period.  HMS is the only plan that will cover wall units.  If the existing central AC unit can’t be repaired and instead needs to be replaced, federal law requires that the new AC meet at least 13 SEER efficiency specifications.  Some plans state that they will automatically install 13 SEER equipment at no additional cost.  Other plans don’t address the issue.  If the AC unit of the home you plan to buy looks pretty old, you may want to read this section of the plans very carefully, and ask questions, before you decide which plan to buy.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Plumbing Covered Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes within the main foundation, except if caused by plumbing stoppages; Garbage disposal; Shower & tub valves; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms Water supply lines; Drain & waste lines; Gas lines; Drain line routing; Faucets, shower heads, shower valves, tub & sink fixtures; Toilets Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves; Sump pumps
Plumbing Not Covered Collapse or damage to water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes due to freezing or roots; Hose bibs; Faucets, sinks, bathtubs, showers; Toilet seats; Water softeners; Water filters; Flow restrictions in water lines All plumbing in the ground, foundation, or slab; All piping outside the perimeter of main foundation; Bath tubs; Laundry tubs; Sinks; Shower base & enclosures; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Exterior hose bibs; Faucets; Freeze damage;  Sprinkler systems; Sewer & water laterals; Water filters, purification; Water softeners Drain line stoppage due to roots; Shower base, enclosure, or doors; Sinks & tubs; Water filters; Sprinkler systems Leaks or breaks caused by freezing, settlement, or roots; Stoppage/clogs of drain/waste lines; Toilet lids & seats; Tubs & showers, shower enclosures, sinks, faucets, fixtures; Water softeners; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Hose bibs
Plumbing Stoppages Covered Clearing of sink, bathtub, shower, toilet stoppages; Clearing of mainline drain & sewer stoppages; Clearing of lateral drain line stoppages Not covered Clogged drain routing (roto-rooter type cleaning) Available at an additional cost
Plumbing Stoppages Not Covered Stoppages due to roots or foreign objects; Stoppages due to collapsed, damaged, or broken drains or sewer lines outside the home’s foundation; Costs to locate, access, or install cleanouts   Drain line stoppages due to tree roots  
Water Heater Covered All components & parts including tankless models Fully covered including failure due to sediment build up Fully covered including flues, gas or electric connections All components & parts
Water Heater Not Covered Flues, vents; Water dispensers Flues, vents Sediment build-up Flues, vents; Problems due to sediment; Drain pans
Water Softener Covered Not covered Not covered All component parts including wiring Not covered
Water Softener Not Covered     Rented units; Repair or Replacement due to mineral beds or deposits  
Sump Pump Covered Permanently installed, for ground water only Fully covered if within the home Primary sump pump for water Permanently installed, for storm water only
Sump Pump Not Covered   If within a crawl space; Backup power; If non-hardpiped installed Ejector or lift pumps for waste Backup power for sump pump
Whirlpool Tub Covered Pumps & motors Pumps, motors, controls, drains, accessible plumbing Pump & motor; Stopper assembly Pumps & motors
Whirlpool Tub Not Covered The tub itself The tub itself; Misuse; Tub enclosure, Tiles The tub itself The tub itself

Be Aware: Plumbing problems are very common with newly purchased homes.  Clogged drains, including the main drain line going to the City’s sewer line, rank at the top of the list of problems that occur soon after moving into a home.  If the home you’re going to buy is older, maybe unoccupied or occupied by only one person, there’s a good chance you’re going to have plumbing problems.  Typical problems are clogged drains and faucets that don’t flow well.  If you decide to buy one of these plans, then you’ll probably want to get a plan with good plumbing coverage that covers a broad range of problems.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Electric Covered All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans Parts & components within the perimeter of exterior walls; Main breaker panel, fuse box; Wiring, switches, receptacles; Ceiling fan motors & controls Service panels, fuse boxes; Wiring, outlets, receptacles, switches; Garage door opener; Exhaust fans; Ceiling fans; Light fixtures; Door bells; Security alarms All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans
Electric Not Covered Light fixtures; DC wiring; Low voltage systems; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload; Ceiling fans Exhaust fans; Door bells; DC wiring, low voltage systems, telephone systems; Exterior wiring, any wiring/components serving a detached structure; Fire, smoke & CO detectors; Light fixtures; Failures caused by inadequate wiring, overloads, surges, power failures Telephone wiring; Smoke alarms Light fixtures; CO alarms; Attic fans; DC wiring; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Covered Ceiling fan coverage available at additional cost Motors & controls of ceiling fans Covered up to $400 aggregate: motors, switches, controls, bearings, blades
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Not Covered   Bathroom exhaust fans; Whole-house exhaust fans   lighting
Central Vacuum Covered Coverage available at additional cost No coverage available Motor & relay switches up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Central Vacuum Not Covered     Central vac hoses & accessories ductwork, blockages, accessories
Security Alarm Covered No coverage available No coverage available Burglar & fire alarms up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Security Alarm Not Covered     Smoke alarms batteries, cameras, monitors
Door Bell Covered Coverage available at additional cost Not covered Covered if not part of an intercom system all components & parts
Door Bell Not Covered     Intercom systems door bells associated with intercom systems
Garage Door Opener Covered coverage available at additional cost 1 unit, parts & components Covered All components & parts for Garage Door Systems
Garage Door Opener Not Covered   Damage caused by door malfunctions; Garage door assemblies; Transmitters, keypads, batteries Garage door assembly Garage doors, chains, tracks, rollers, springs, remote devices

Be Aware: The electric system is pretty static (pun!) and not much can go wrong with it.  It doesn’t really wear out.  But I do like the idea that some of the plans cover the items that can wear out, such as fans and light fixtures.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Appliances Covered Built-in microwaves; Dishwashers; Garbage disposals; Ranges, ovens, cooktops; Parts & components affecting the operation of 1 of each (must be in the kitchen): refrigerator/freezer, built-in dishwasher, built-in microwave, range/oven/cooktop, range exhaust hood; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances, downdraft cooktops, convection ovens, double wall ovens Must Be In the Kitchen: oven/range, dishwasher, garbage disposal, built-in microwave, freezer; Up to $2,000 in aggregate for repairs to or replacement of high-end appliances All components & parts for kitchen appliances: Dishwasher (built-in or portable); Garbage disposal; Built-in microwave; Range, oven, cooktop; Up to $1,000 in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances
Appliances Not Covered Clocks, racks, handles, knobs Stand-alone freezer;  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers, self-cleaning mechanism Doors, handles, clocks, knobs, racks, shelves, etc.; TVs, computers, & monitors that are part of appliances Racks, baskets, shelves, doors, seals, handles, knobs, glass, clocks; Disposal jams due to bones & foreign objects
Refrigerator Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  Must be in the kitchen; All components & parts, including ice maker and ice/water dispensers Parts & components for one refrigerator or refrigerator/freezer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances Compressor, coil, fan motor, thermostat, wiring All components & parts, including integral freezer & ice maker
Refrigerator Not Covered    Ice maker, ice & beverage dispensers; Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers Ice maker; Beverage dispenser; Doors, handles, shelves, clocks, knobs, dials Racks, shelves, door seals, lights, handles; Beverage dispensers, water lines & valves to ice makers; Refrigerator not in the kitchen
Washer & Dryer Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  All components & parts 1 of each: Clothes washer & clothes dryer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances All component parts All components & parts
Washer & Dryer Not Covered Filters, screens, knobs, dials, venting, shelves, dispensers, damage to clothing  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers; Filters, screens; Venting Door, handles, clocks, knobs, dials, baskets, shelves, drains Knobs, dials, screens, soap dispensers, door seals; Venting

Be Aware: Appliances get used a lot and they break a lot.  Coverage for appliance repairs is a key benefit of these plans.  AHS does not include three of the most important appliances – refrigerator, washer, dryer – in their base coverage plan.  Instead, you have to pay extra to get those items covered.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Roof Leaks Covered No coverage available No coverage available Up to $750 to repair roof leaks, including shingles & built-up roofing up to $300 aggregate
Roof Leaks Not Covered     Damage from wind, ice, snow, acts of God; Leaks due to improper installation; Chimneys; Gutters & downspouts; Skylights & flashing; Secondary damage from leaks or re-roofing Leaks due to roof-mounted installations; Ice dams; Unattached garage roof; Wood underlayment; Flashing; Leaks due to missing/broken shingles; Damage from walking or standing on roof; Failure to maintain roof; Acts of God; Gutters

Be Aware: HSA and HWA say they’ll cover roof leaks, but when you read the exclusions you realize that pretty much everything that causes a roof leak is not covered.

Alternative Plans:            Both Xcel Energy and Center Point Energy offer service plans for appliances.  I’ll take a look at those plans in a future blog post.

It’s Getting Pretty Steamy In Here!

Leave a comment

Why Your Windows Steam Up and What You Can Do About It

Inside your home is a lot of moisture.  This moisture comes from the people inside your home, from cooking, washing, bathing and taking showers, even from plants.  Moisture even enters your home through the basement floor and foundation walls.  If your home is new, the lumber used to build your home releases a lot of moisture into your home as well.

During the summer you probably have your windows open which provides ventilation (interior air goes out, fresh air comes in).  Ventilation allows most of the moisture inside your home to go outside.  If it gets too hot and humid during the summer, you might turn on your air conditioning.  The air conditioner not only cools your home, but it also dehumidifies (removes moisture) the air inside your home.

When it’s cold outside, you shut your windows and keep them shut maybe for all winter long.  So now there’s no more ventilation taking place.  Also, when it’s cold outside, the glass area of your windows gets cold.

Moisture condenses on cold surfaces, such as cold glass.  When it’s cold outside, there’s also lots of moisture in your home, and that moisture readily condenses on your cold windows.  At first your windows may appear a little foggy.  Then after a while water is running down the inside of the windows and puddles up on the sash frames.  If the sash frames are made of wood, the water will ultimately cause the wood to turn back and deteriorate.  If the sash are made out of vinyl or aluminum, the water won’t do as much damage, but will result in a buildup of dirty crud on the sash frames.  If you don’t wipe up the water once in a while you’ll eventually see mildew and mold start to grow on your sash frames.  In the winter, the water that collects at the bottom of window sash can freeze, making it even more difficult to clean off the excess moisture.  The ice can also result in damage to your windows, in particular to the glass panes.  So it’s important to keep moisture from building up on your windows.

If the condensation and water on your windows bothers you – and it should – you’ll find yourself constantly grabbing a towel and wiping down your windows.  But that’s not a solution to the problem.

What Can You Do About This Problem?

The solution to this problem involves a two-pronged approach.  First, try to reduce the amount of moisture in your home, and secondly, increase the amount of ventilation.  To reduce moisture inside your home, limit the number of plants, the length of showers, the amount of water boiling for cooking.  If you have a humidifier on your furnace, turn it off (but then you have to tolerate drier air which can be uncomfortable).  People in your home contribute a lot of moisture to the interior environment.  If your home has several occupants, or if you have a lot of guests in your house, that can result in lots of moisture being introduced into your home.  As you can see it’s difficult to reduce the amount of moisture that’s created or introduced into your home.  So, the best solution is to manage the moisture content in your home by providing ventilation.-

One simple method of ventilation is to just open some windows once in a while.  Yes, that will chill down the interior temperature and will waste some heating energy, but it’ll allow significant amounts of moisture to leave your house.  A very important and effective measure you can take to reduce the amount of moisture in your home is to run your bathroom exhaust fans during and after showers and baths.  Make sure the exhaust fans are actually exhausting air to the outside of your home and not just into the attic.  And, if you don’t run your exhaust fans because they’re too noisy, go to the store and buy new ones.  The new ones today are much quieter than the old style fans.

Some range hoods have fans that just recirculate air through filters, but some have exhaust fans that actually exhaust air to the outside.  If your range hood is equipped with an exhaust fan, run that fan when you’re boiling water or running the dishwasher.  The same thing is important here – make sure the range hood is exhausted to the outside and not into your attic.

Most newer homes and even some older homes are equipped with heat-recovery ventilators.  These mechanisms provide fresh air ventilation throughout the home and are very effective in managing moisture in homes.

Another trick you might try is to go over to your thermostat and turn the fan to “on” instead of “auto”.  This will cause the furnace fan to run constantly (not just when the furnace is heating) which will result in more air moving past your windows, which in turn will help move moisture away from the windows.

The quality of the windows in your home comes into play with this problem.  Some windows are better than others and typically cost more.  Another way to put it is cheaper windows are not built as well as more expensive windows.  A superior quality feature of better windows is that they have insulated glass panes, and often the space between the glass panes is filled with argon, an inert gas that has a higher insulation value as compared to just plain air.  In other words, better windows provide a slightly higher insulation value than cheaper windows.  And that slightly higher insulating quality can often times result in the windows not fogging up in the winter.  But if your windows are in reasonably good condition, even if they fog up in the winter you’re probably not going to spend the money to replace them with more expensive windows.  But if your windows are in pretty bad condition, you’ll be very pleased with new ones.

You may find that just by paying special attention to the amount of moisture creating activities going on in your house and by introducing sufficient ventilation into your house, you’ll be able to reduce the amount of moisture in your home and ultimately the amount of condensation on your windows.  If none of these steps seem to help, then you might want to talk with an HVAC (heating, ventilation, & air conditioning) contractor about installing a ventilator in your home.

Get Your Home Ready For Winter!

Leave a comment

It’s Fall, the weather is very pleasant – not too hot, not too cold.  But soon the night time temperatures will start dipping into the freezing range, then the day time temperatures will follow, and Winter will be here.  There are a few things you need to do with your house before those freezing temperatures arrive.

Yard

  • Rake your leaves and get rid of them.  You don’t want a layer of leaves to stay on your grass over the winter.  It can cause your grass to grow poorly next spring or even die out completely.
  • Mow your grass one last time.  Then put a little Sta-Bil or Sea Foam in the mower gas tank and run the engine for a few minutes.

Water

  • Disconnect garden hoses from the exterior water faucets (sometimes called sillcocks or hose bibs).  Coil up the hoses and put them in your garage or garden shed.
  • Turn off the water supply to the exterior faucets and drain the water out of the water pipe.  In your basement you’ll find a shutoff valve on the water pipe going to each exterior water faucet.
  • If you have an underground lawn sprinkler system, turn off the water to the sprinklers, drain the pipe, and have the water in the system blown out with compressed air.

Roof

  • Clean the soffit vents – they’re located under the roof overhangs (eaves).  They can get clogged up with lint, dust, spider webs, paint, etc.  You can use a broom, or if you have a power air blower you can blow air along the soffits to loosen up the dirt and debris.
  • After all the leaves have fallen from your (and your neighbors’) trees, clean your gutters and downspouts.  Make sure water will run toward the downspouts and will freely flow out of the downspouts.  Then, make sure you have downspout extensions that direct the water away from your home.
  • Check roof vents, chimney, and furnace flue for bird nests or any other obstructions.  Clean them if necessary.

Air Conditioner

  • Clean away leaves, sticks, dirt, etc. from the AC unit.  You can do this by spraying water with a hose nozzle, or by vacuuming with a ShopVac, or just by using a broom and your hands.
  • Do Not Cover your air conditioner, it is not necessary and can cause damage.  If you want to place a cover on the top of the air conditioner, that’s okay, but not necessary.

 General Exterior

  • Seal any gaps around the house; check for loose or dried caulking around pipes, vent ducts, faucets, air conditioner refrigerant lines, etc.
  • Replace any damaged or worn weather stripping around windows and doors.
  • Clean the clothes dryer vent and make sure the flap closes easily.  Also, reach up into the dryer vent duct and clean it out – lots of lint can accumulate inside the duct and can cause your dryer to not work well and can even result in a fire!
  • Clean the air intake vent (called combustion air or makeup air).
  • If you have an air exchanger (heat recovery ventilator), clean the air intake vent.
  • Check the bathroom exhaust vent, make sure it’s not obstructed, clean out dust and debris, wasp nests, etc.
  • Check the kitchen exhaust vent, make sure it’s not obstructed, clean out dust and debris, wasp nests, etc.

Furnace

  • Have a professional furnace tune-up performed.  If you have Center Point Service Plus or Xcel Energy Home Smart, call them to do the furnace tune-up.  Otherwise, you can call any HVAC service company; they’ll charge you from $89 to $200, so shop and compare.
  • Clean or replace the furnace filter – this should be done at least every one to three months, depending on the type of filter.  The arrow (air flow) on the filter should point toward the furnace.

Smoke / CO Alarms

  • Smoke alarms should be located inside every bedroom, and one in a common area on every level.  Check them to make sure they work.  Replace the batteries if necessary.  If your smoke detectors are more than 10 years old they should be replaced.
  • CO (carbon monoxide) alarms should be located within ten feet of every sleeping room (not in furnace rooms, kitchens, or garages).  Check them to make sure they sound off.  Replace the batteries if necessary.  If your CO detectors are more than 5 years old they should be replaced.

Fireplace

  • If you have a wood burning fireplace, have the chimney cleaned and inspected if that hasn’t been done in the past couple years.
  • Make sure the spark arrestor and cap are installed property on the chimney.
  • If you have a gas fireplace, vacuum and clean it.  Vacuum the dust out of the bottom of it.  Clean the glass with regular window cleaner.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.