I Do Not Practice – I Am Good!

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MultiCultural Realty is now Dakota Scott Realty.  Still me, Michael Harrell, broker and owner, doing my one-man real estate brokerage.  That allows me to focus my time and attention on my clients, not on managing other agents.  So I guess you’d have to say I have a real estate practice.

That reminds me of a story my brother once told me about a fellow who came into his business in California.  My brother didn’t recognize the fellow as a regular customer, so he greeted him and struck up a conversation.  The fellow spoke good English, but with a heavy accent, and English was obviously not his first language.  During their conversation my brother asked the fellow what he did – he said he was a doctor of some sort.  My brother said, “oh, do you have a practice?” to which the fellow immediately responded, “I do not practice.  I am good!”

Well, after over 20 years in real estate, I hope I am not practicing, I do think I am good, but I’ll be the first to say that I’m constantly learning – every day.  This business is not dull and boring; changes happen on a daily basis.

My job, and the value I bring to you as a client, is to keep up on those changes and help you navigate the home buying or home selling process successfully.  Being a sole practitioner and not an office manager allows me to give you the highest level of service possible, which, I believe, is what you are looking for in a real estate broker.

Who Will Pay Your Closing Costs? Or – Who’s Your Sugar Daddy?

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If you’re going to buy a home you’re going to have to come up with three pots of money – 1) a down payment, 2) financing, and 3) money for closing costs.  The biggest chunk of money you’re going to need – the financing – will be covered by your mortgage.  And in order to get the mortgage you’re going to need down payment money.  FHA requires at least 3.5% of the purchase price as a down payment.  Some conventional mortgages only require 3.0% but most look for 5%, 10% or 20% down.

Where are you going to get your down payment money?  Some home buyers wait to buy a home until they have saved up enough for a down payment.  That’s admirable, but not always necessary.  You might qualify for down payment assistance, such as from Minnesota Housing, in which case the most you’ll need of your own money would be $1,000.  Another option could be “Gift Funds.”  You can’t borrow down payment money, but it can be given to you if you’re getting an FHA mortgage.  To learn more about this option, ask your loan officer about a “non-occupying co-borrower.”

There’s another chunk of money you’re going to need – quite likely even more than what you’ll need for a down payment – closing costs money.  First of all, what are closing costs?  Closing costs are a collection of fees, expenses, and pre-paid escrow items that you will incur in the purchase of your home.  Closing costs fluctuate with the price of the home, the kind and amount of financing, taxes and insurance amounts, lender fees, the title company you use, and the date of closing.  Depending on all these variables, closing costs typically total from 3% to 5% of the home’s selling price.  For instance, let’s say you want to purchase a home for $200,000 using an FHA mortgage, and you’re going to close on March 25.  Total closing costs will be about $7,600 (3.8% of the purchase price).

Where are you going to get your closing costs money?  Gift funds aren’t allowed and generally speaking, you can’t borrow money for closing cost.  You could save it up, but that might take a while.  Or, you can create the money.  Now, I didn’t say “make the money,” I said “create” it.

How can you create closing costs money?  Simple – give it to the seller and have the seller give it back to you.  In the lower- to mid-price ranges, this is the most common way that buyers come up with closing costs money.  Here’s how it works:  you offer the seller a purchase price and in that offer you state that you require the seller to pay a certain amount of money toward your closing costs.  The amount you ask for would be as close to the actual total amount of closing costs that you and your real estate agent can estimate.  If the seller agrees to this deal, you’ve got your closing costs covered.  Simple.

Okay, that looks pretty easy and straight-forward.  It looks like you negotiated for the seller to pay your closing costs; it looks like you got something out of the seller.  Yes you did, but you paid for it.  Let’s look deeper into your offer.  Let’s say you offered the seller $200,000 and required him to pay $7,600 toward your closing costs.  You are paying $200K for the home, but the seller is only getting $192,400.  This is called the seller’s net.  The reason the seller said “yes” to this deal is because a net of $192,400 satisfied him.  What if you would have offered the seller $192,400 and did not require him to pay anything toward your closing costs?  The seller would have said “yes” to that deal as well.  It’s a lower selling price but it’s the same net amount to the seller.  So no matter how much you offer the seller, if you require the seller to contribute toward your closing costs, then the seller would have always accepted a lower offer in which they did not contribute toward your closing costs.  In other words, if money for your closing costs is in the price of the home, it’s you who actually is paying for your closing costs.

Is this a smart thing to do?  Probably, because it gets you where you want to go – into a home sooner rather than later.  But if you’re the analytical type (like me), let’s break it down and look at your options.  Back to our example:  $200K purchase price, FHA 30-year mortgage at 4.75%, 3.5% down.  The monthly payment on this mortgage for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance is $1,162.  In that $200K price is $7,600 in closing costs.  If the purchase price were reduced to $192,400 then the monthly payment would be $1,117.  So it would cost you $45 per month to have the seller pay your closing costs.  That’s 7.1% annual interest which isn’t bad.

There are also some upfront costs associated with getting this $7,600 that you should be aware of.  As you go from a purchase price of $192,400 to $200,000 your down payment increases by $266, your upfront mortgage insurance increases by $73, mortgage registration tax goes up $18, your lender’s origination fee is $73 more, and you’ll pay $7 more in prepaid mortgage insurance.  So in addition to the $45/mo ($540 for the first year) you’re going to pay an additional $437 in cash and fees for the higher purchase price.  In year #1 that $7,600 will cost you $977 which is 12.86%.  Still not as much as credit card interest, but something to be aware of none the less.

That analysis may be more nit-picky than necessary.  But what’s important for you to realize is that by including closing costs in the price of your home, it’s going to cost you some additional upfront cash and fees, and because your purchase price is higher, it’s going to cost you more each month.

What are the advantages of having the seller pay your closing costs?  Most importantly to you, like I said earlier, if you don’t have the extra $7,600, it gets you into a home now rather than waiting until you save $7,600.  And it doesn’t really cost that much extra – a few hundred dollars up front and an extra $45 per month, in this example.  Another advantage to paying the higher price with closing costs included is that the home may not appraise at the higher value.  This could turn out to be to your advantage, as a buyer, because it would force the seller to consider selling the home at the lower appraised value (still including closing costs for you), thus saving you a few thousand dollars.

What are the disadvantages to you?  As I’ve said several times, you’re going to pay a higher price for your home, which means you will be paying more than what the home is worth.  In this market of declining home values, the idea of paying more than a home is worth should cause you to take pause.  You’re going to pay a higher monthly payment for the home, so again, it’s costing you more but it’s not worth more.  Another disadvantage is that paying a higher price drives up your mortgage insurance: upfront as well as monthly.  And mortgage insurance nets you nothing.  It doesn’t net you any additional equity in your home.  In our example here, at the higher purchase price, you’ll pay an additional $73 in upfront mortgage insurance plus an additional $72 per year (for about 10 years).

Where does the seller stand on this idea of paying your closing costs?  What are the advantages and disadvantages to them?  The biggest advantage is that it gets their home sold.  If you are a ready, willing, and able buyer, only limited by your lack of closing costs money, most sellers will eagerly pay your closing costs, as long as they get the net amount that they are satisfied with.  As far as disadvantages to sellers, they’ll pay a slightly higher deed tax ($3.40 per $1,000 of selling price, so in our example it would cost them an additional $26) and a slightly higher selling commission to their real estate company (about $400 in our example).  The biggest potential disadvantage of accepting a higher price for their home is that the home may not appraise at the higher price.  In that situation they may feel forced to reduce the selling price in order to get their home sold.

Closing costs is one of the three pots of money you’ll need when you buy a home.  You don’t have to wait to buy a home until you save up enough for both your down payment and closing costs.  You can create closing costs money by working cooperatively with the seller.  The seller gets their home sold and you get the home you want now.  Win-Win!

Buy NOW or Buy LATER?

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Can you afford it?  We all ask ourselves that question these days.  In the grocery store: can we afford the salmon fillet now or should we wait and see if it goes on sale?  At Best Buy: can I afford that really cool big screen TV (meaning I’ll still be paying it off well after new technology has passed me by) or can I only afford this basic model (meaning I could actually write a check for it today)?  In these examples, the word “afford” means how much money can you part with and will you feel like you received good value in exchange for parting with that money?  In other words, how much money can you part with without it hurting, or if it does hurt, is it worth the pain?

Affording a home purchase is a more complex concept.  When you buy a home you’ll part with a lot of money up front, plus you’ll part with a significant amount of money each month for a long, long time.  And when considering a home purchase, you’re not the only one who is involved in the decision of how much you can afford.  Your mortgage company has a big say in just how much they believe you can afford to take on as a new mortgage debt.  So here the word “afford” means how much money do you have that you can part with now (the down payment) and how much monthly debt will you be allowed to take on for the next 30 years?

In real estate and home buying, we also use the concept of “affordability” when characterizing the prices of homes.  Real estate economists have developed a Housing Affordability Index (HAI) which takes into account home prices, mortgage interest rates, and incomes of would-be home buyers.  The actual HAI figure is arrived at through calculations that include some assumptions that may or may not apply to your situation, but what’s important is the change in the affordability index over time.

In recent months, here in the Twin Cities, the affordability index has gone up substantially from where it was just a few years ago.  Back in 2006 when prices were high, the affordability index was around 120 to 130.  Today, it’s up to almost 220, meaning more people are better able to afford to buy a home and they can afford a more expensive home than even back in 2006.  The obvious paradox is that when affordability was lower, more people did in fact buy homes, including homes that, as it turned out, they could not afford.  That was because lending requirements were much looser than they are now.  Today, with affordability very high, fewer people are buying homes, due to more stringent lending requirements and also due to would-be buyers being unsure about their jobs and the economy.

You’ve heard it many times lately:  this is a great time to buy a home.  Why are people saying that when the economy is in such bad shape?  It’s because of affordability.  Take a look at the three components of the affordability index.  Home Prices are very low compared to where they were 2 to 3 years ago.  And the short term outlook is that prices will remain flat or even go down more.  Mortgage interest rates are low – as low as they have been in generations.  Rates have moved up in the past month or so, but they still remain very low as compared to what they have been in the past 30 to 40 years.  Incomes are a little trickier in this affordability equation.  It’s true, many people do not have incomes right now because they don’t have jobs.  But for those people who are employed, their incomes have remained fairly stable or at least have not gone down too much during the recession.  Taking all three of these factors into account, homes are more affordable than they ever have been.

Buy Now or Wait?  This extremely high affordability is a green light to buy a home now.  If it’s the right time for you personally – stage of life, family situation, financial situation, etc. – then this is THE time to buy a home.  Waiting will likely cost you.  If the economy is on its way to rebounding like some economists suggest, then incomes will start going up, which will cause more people to want to buy homes, which in turn will put more demand on the supply of homes in the market, which will have a net effect of home prices going up.  Interest rates have already gone up in the past month or so, and if the economy shows any signs at all of improving, rates will go up even more, bringing affordability down.

Home prices are definitely the wild card in projecting where affordability will go in the near future.  Foreclosures, short sales, and low appraisals continue to put downward pressure on home prices.  Some real estate industry enthusiasts say that prices have hit bottom and will start increasing this year.  Others who are not so optimistic say we may see another 3% to as much as 10% drop in prices by the end of 2011.  Who’s right?  We won’t know until December!  But what if prices do go down by, say, 5% between now and September – how will that affect affordability?  Let’s crunch some numbers and see.

Let’s say you buy a home now.  We’ll say it’s a $200,000 home and you use an FHA mortgage at today’s rate of 4.50%.  The monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,132.43.

Now let’s say instead of buying this winter you wait and buy in September, and by then home prices have gone down another 5%.  Now your purchase price would be $190,000.  If rates stay the same as they are now, your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,075.81 – over $56 per month less.  Sounds pretty good.  But – interest rates are not likely to stay down where they are now.  It’s anybody’s guess where rates will be 9 months from now, but let’s say the going rate in September is 5.50%.  Now your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,188.96 – pretty much wiping out the savings from waiting.  Even if rates only go up one half of one percent between now and September, and prices still go down 5%, the monthly payment would be the same as if you purchased now.  So you’re not likely to even break even by waiting.  And what if the optimists are right?  What if prices do go up during the summer?  Interest rates are most likely going up as we move into 2011.  I think the risk that both prices and interest rates will go up is pretty high and in my opinion, it’s hard to come up with a good argument to wait much longer to buy a home.

Does all this convince you to buy now?  I’m trying to lay out the facts and some of the opinions, and I’ll admit, if you’re on the fence at all I’m trying to nudge you to go ahead and buy.  I don’t think you’ll get stung and I think you’ll very likely look back and be really glad you did buy this winter or early this spring.  And I’ll also admit that I’d sure like to see this economy get going and nothing is going to drive it forward like home purchases!

Minnesota Housing

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Minnesota Housing provides below-market interest rate loans to first time homebuyers.  Interest rates in general are low these days and MN Housing’s rates are even LOWER!

Also, Minnesota Housing provides downpayment and closing costs assistance to first time homebuyers.  The assistance money is in the form of an interest-free loan that has no monthly payment.

To qualify for a MN Housing loan your income does not have to be high – in fact, quite the opposite.  The loan programs are for home buyers with low to moderate incomes.

You do not have to have perfect credit, either.  Your credit has to be good enough to qualify for a basic FHA mortgage.

There are several details associated with these low interest loan progams, so the best way to find out if you can get one is to talk with a loan officer who specializes in working with them.  Only a few loan officers in the metro area work with MN Housing.  Call or email me and I’ll send you a list of the loan officers that I know who are well versed in Minnesota Housing loan programs.

Cultural Assimilation

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Medhanit had been in Minnesota only one month before she became a very proficient snow blower operator!

Home Warranty Plans Compared

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In September of this year the Minnesota Association of Realtors issued a new Purchase Agreement (PA) document.  One of the new features of that new PA is found on lines 180-185.  It is titled “Home Protection/Warranty Plan” and advises sellers and buyers to investigate the various home protection/warranty plans available.  The PA requires the buyer and seller to state whether or not a plan will be obtained and who is going to pay for it.  Or, the parties can indicate that no plan will be part of the PA.

This is one Realtor who adamantly believes this addition to the PA is a mistake, was ill-conceived, and is very poorly presented.  The new PA calls these plans “home protection” and “warranty” plans, probably because that’s what the companies that sell them call them.  But these plans don’t protect homes one bit.  Nor are they warranties – they don’t guarantee a thing.  They are service plans.  They absorb some of the cost to repair or replace some items in a home that break.  The purchase agreement is not supposed to be a marketing tool for the companies that sell these plans – but now, that’s what it is.

If a seller decides to activate and pay for one of these plans when they put their home up for sale, and extends that plan to the buyer of their home, I’m all for that.  That seller has already decided that the cost of the plan is simply another selling expense and not a seller concession requested by a buyer.  It doesn’t count against the buyer in negotiations.  But the new PA baits buyers into erroneously thinking that they can request a plan and have the seller pay for it.  Even if the PA shows that the seller is going to pay for a plan, in reality the buyer pays.  If a seller agrees to pay for a plan that costs, say, $400, that means the seller would have accepted $400 less for their home if they didn’t have to pay for a plan.  So in this example, just like when a seller pays for a buyer’s closing costs, the price – not the value – of the home has been increased by $400.

If a buyer decides to purchase one of the plans on their own, it’s none of the seller’s business.  What if the buyer indicates on the PA that they are going to purchase a plan at a cost of $400 – now the seller knows the buyer has an extra $400 – maybe the seller wants that money instead of letting some home warranty company get it.

Well, you get the point – I don’t like the fact that this is in the new PA.

But, it is.  And as a buyer’s broker I decided I’d better get prepared to answer the inevitable question my clients will have: Which One Should I Get?  I can’t tell my clients that they should or shouldn’t buy a plan – it’s their money, their home, their risk.  Nor can I tell my clients which plan they should get.  I’ll give them copies of the sample contracts to read and review – well in advance of decision time.  But I know they’re not going to read them, there are too many other fun things to do when you’re looking for a home to buy.  In an effort to help my clients, I read and analyzed the four plans that I am familiar with.  The breakdown of what each has to offer follows below.  Read it, then decide for yourself.

These service plans are not insurance plans.  They don’t cover things like fire or water damage, or accidents.  However, when you’re deciding whether to buy one and which one to buy, in a way you’re going to think as though you’re buying insurance.  You’re going to observe the condition of the components of the home you want to buy and then you’re going to ask yourself, “How likely is it that this particular component is going to fail in the next 12 months?”  If the likelihood is high and the cost to fix it will be at least $500, then you may want to buy a plan that will cover that component.  If you think the likelihood is low that components in the home will fail during the next 12 months or if they do that the cost to fix them is less than $500, then you might decide the cost of a plan outweighs the risk.

The plan contracts are lengthy and consist of only fine print and long lists of exclusions, restrictions, and limitations.  Likewise, this blog post is long, very long.  But a topic like this cannot be covered without going into details, yet I don’t represent for a moment that this analysis is dead accurate or complete.  You still need to read each contract and evaluate them relative to the specific home you are going to buy.  It’ll take some time and your brain will hurt when you’re finished.  The plan contracts are much broader than what’s necessary for my Twin Cities clients.  So in an effort to make this analysis a little easier to digest, I pared down the information to better suit my typical home buyer clients.

Plan Names:       Here are the names of the four companies that I am familiar with that sell plans in Minnesota:  AHS, HMS, HSA, HWA.  Not much creativity in their names.  Maybe there’s a marketing reason to that, but it escapes me.

Residential Type:             All of the plans I evaluated are for existing (used, resale) single family residences, whether owner occupied or rental property.  AHS, HMS, and HWA single family plans also cover condos and townhomes.  HSA will cover condos, but for $30 less.  Their price list does not show townhome coverage as available.  The plan companies also offer plans for new homes, but I did not evaluate those plans.

Plans & Prices:   Each company offers one or more plans plus one or more additional options.  You could buy a basic plan or you could buy the whole enchilada, or something in between.  Because each plan has unique features, it’s impossible to do an apples-to-apples comparison.  Based upon my experiences with my buyers over the years, I compared plans that have the features that I’d guess my buyers would want.  These are the plans I evaluated:

AHS – Core Coverage Plan ($432) plus the Flexplan Option for refrigerator, washer, & dryer ($102).  The plan plus option total cost is $534.

HMS – offers a base plan for $425.  For $20 more they offer roof and foundation coverage, but their sample contract does not describe these coverages, so I did not evaluate them.  When I asked the local marketing rep for information about their plan, he told me that when my buyer purchases an HMS plan for $425, HMS will pay me $60, so I need to send them only $365.  I take that to mean that the real price is $365.  HMS has an interesting feature called the Preventative Maintenance Benefit – after the first 9 months, if you have not placed any claims, they will pay $100 toward an AC or heating system maintenance service.

HSA – offers one plan at two different prices, depending on the “deductible” amount.  If the deductible is $75, the plan costs $439.  If the deductible is $100, the plan costs $419.

HWA – offers three plans and several options.  I evaluated their Platinum plan which costs $400 and has a $100 service fee.

Service Call Fee:               If you have one of these plans, when you call for service on some item in your home, it will cost you a service fee.  Some of the plans call the fee a deductible, but it’s not really a deductible because you will be charged the service fee even if work is not performed.  Also, with most of the plans, you will pay the service fee to each trade contractor who is involved in the work.  For instance, if your furnace needs to be replaced and some electrical work needs to be done for the new furnace, you’ll pay a service fee to the heating contractor and also to the electrical contractor.  HMS does not do this.  They only charge one service fee of $100 per service call, no matter how many service contractors are involved.  AHS charges a $60 trade service fee for each service contractor.  HSA offers their plan at two different prices, depending on the service fee amount.  If the plan costs $439, then the service fee is $75.  If the plan costs $419, then the service fee is $100.  HWA also offers two service fees.  If you want to pay only a $50 fee you can, but the plan’s coverage is less than if you selected a plan that charges a $100 service fee.

Coverage Period:             Generally speaking these are 1-year plans.  They typically start on the date of closing and expire one year later.  The exception is HWA – their plan is a 13-month plan.

Coverage:           These plans are “repair or replace” plans.  The plans all promise to fix covered items, even if that means replacing them with new ones.  However, the plans do differ in exactly what they will replace items with.  AHS, HSA, and HWA all say they will replace with items of similar features, capacity, and efficiency.  HMS says it will replace with base models.  All of the plans say they reserve the right to offer a homeowner cash in lieu of repairing or replacing an item.

Conditions for Coverage:             The standard that must be met to qualify for coverage is that the item that needs service must be inoperable or malfunctioning due to normal wear and tear.  If it was damaged or misused, it’s not covered.  If the item malfunctions due to insufficient maintenance and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  Not so with the other three plans.  If the item malfunctions within the first 30 days of coverage due to rust or corrosion, and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  The other plans make you wait 30 days before rust coverage kicks in.  Three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be within the confines of the main foundation or garage.  The HMS plan simply says that an item must be in the home (no mention as to whether an item in the garage qualifies for coverage, so assume it does not).  And three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be working at the time the plan starts.  But the AHS plan does not draw that line.

Non-Covered Items:       This is important.  These plans are full of exclusions, limitations, and restrictions.  The plans list items that are covered and the wording is very specific.  Then, they go on to make a blanket statement of what is not covered: anything not stated as covered.  So the only items that are covered are the things that are specifically listed.  If it’s not listed, it’s not covered.  Also, most of the plans state that they won’t cover things like damages that result from a service contractor’s service or delays in service, or for faulty workmanship by a service contractor, even one that they selected.

What’s Not Covered?     With all the plans, coverage does not include routine maintenance, or defective items, or removal and disposal of old items, or damage due to accidents, fire, or freezing.  The AHS plan also states that damage due to mold, mildew, and pests is not covered.  Also not covered would be modifications that need to be done in order to accommodate a new replacement item.  And when replacing items with new ones, the plans won’t pay for upgrades or to match colors, models, dimensions, or brands.  With some of the plans, coverage for some exclusions can be purchased at additional costs.

Maximum Coverage Limits:         Unless it’s hidden someplace where I just couldn’t find it, the AHS contract makes no mention of coverage limits.  The other three plans definitely do.  The other three plans (HMS, HSA, HWA) limit the coverage per claim to $5,000.  HSA limits it lifetime coverage to $25,000 while HMS and HWA have $15,000 lifetime coverage limits.

Claims Process:                With all of the plans, if you experience a problem with a covered item in your home, you first need to call your plan company.  They all have toll-free numbers that are staffed 24/7.  The next step varies somewhat among the plan companies.  With AHS, a service contractor will contact you to set an appointment.  With HMS and HSA, you will contact a service contractor from a list of approved contractors.  HWA will select a service contractor for you.  What’s important is that you need to read about and be aware of the exact process set forth by your plan company.  If you don’t follow their process they probably will not cover the repairs.

Home Service Plans – Buyer Coverage for existing (used, resale) single family homes

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Heat Covered The main source of heat to the home or to a room including components, plenum, electrical, & ducts; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system 1 primary heating system: central air, hot water, or electric baseboard; Fan motors, burners, heat exchangers, thermostats; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system Forced air systems; Electric baseboard; Thermostats; Humidifiers; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system All components & parts necessary for the operation of the system; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system
Heat Not Covered Fireplaces; Wood burners; Air filters; Electronic air cleaners; Flues, vents, chimneys; Grills, registers; Humidifiers; Dehumidifiers; Garage heaters Fireplaces; Chimneys, flues; Asbestos insulated pipes; Humidifiers; Filters, electrostatic filters; Space heaters Fireplaces & wood burning equipment; Chimneys; Flue liners; Air filters & cleaners; Space heaters; HRVs Baseboard casings; Fireplaces; Wood stoves; Filters; Electronic air cleaners; Registers, grills; Flues, vents; Humidifiers; Space heaters
Ductwork Covered Leaks or breaks in ducts from heating or AC unit to attachment at registers/grills Accessible ductwork Ductwork from furnace to register Accessible ducts from heating unit to point of attachment at registers/grills
Ductwork Not Covered Registers, grills, insulation, dampers, improperly sized ducts Asbestos insulated ductwork; Inaccessible ductwork Improperly sized ductwork Registers/grills; Asbestos-insulated ducts; Flues & vents; Diagnostic testing

Be Aware: If the home you plan to buy has hot water or steam heat, as many homes do in the Twin Cities, the most these service plan companies will spend to fix or repair the system is $1,500.  That doesn’t go very far if you’re in need of a new boiler.  If your forced air heating system has an electronic air filter, also common in our area, it’s not covered.  Only HSA covers humidifiers attached to the furnace, which are common and often recommended for indoor comfort.

AHS HMS HSA HWA

Air Conditioning Covered

Ducted AC units Centrally ducted AC; Air handlers, fan motors, controls, compressors, condensers, coils, refrigerant, thermostats; Up to 3 wall units if primary cooling system Electric AC units; Repair if possible; If replacement required, will replace with 13 SEER equipment Ducted AC systems: all components & parts; Repair/replacement with 13 SEER equipment

Air Conditioning Not Covered

Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Improperly sized units Window units; condensate pumps; energy management systems Non-ducted wall & window ACs; Modifications for new AC equipment Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Condensate pumps; Improperly sized units

Be Aware: Window AC units are not covered, period.  HMS is the only plan that will cover wall units.  If the existing central AC unit can’t be repaired and instead needs to be replaced, federal law requires that the new AC meet at least 13 SEER efficiency specifications.  Some plans state that they will automatically install 13 SEER equipment at no additional cost.  Other plans don’t address the issue.  If the AC unit of the home you plan to buy looks pretty old, you may want to read this section of the plans very carefully, and ask questions, before you decide which plan to buy.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Plumbing Covered Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes within the main foundation, except if caused by plumbing stoppages; Garbage disposal; Shower & tub valves; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms Water supply lines; Drain & waste lines; Gas lines; Drain line routing; Faucets, shower heads, shower valves, tub & sink fixtures; Toilets Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves; Sump pumps
Plumbing Not Covered Collapse or damage to water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes due to freezing or roots; Hose bibs; Faucets, sinks, bathtubs, showers; Toilet seats; Water softeners; Water filters; Flow restrictions in water lines All plumbing in the ground, foundation, or slab; All piping outside the perimeter of main foundation; Bath tubs; Laundry tubs; Sinks; Shower base & enclosures; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Exterior hose bibs; Faucets; Freeze damage;  Sprinkler systems; Sewer & water laterals; Water filters, purification; Water softeners Drain line stoppage due to roots; Shower base, enclosure, or doors; Sinks & tubs; Water filters; Sprinkler systems Leaks or breaks caused by freezing, settlement, or roots; Stoppage/clogs of drain/waste lines; Toilet lids & seats; Tubs & showers, shower enclosures, sinks, faucets, fixtures; Water softeners; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Hose bibs
Plumbing Stoppages Covered Clearing of sink, bathtub, shower, toilet stoppages; Clearing of mainline drain & sewer stoppages; Clearing of lateral drain line stoppages Not covered Clogged drain routing (roto-rooter type cleaning) Available at an additional cost
Plumbing Stoppages Not Covered Stoppages due to roots or foreign objects; Stoppages due to collapsed, damaged, or broken drains or sewer lines outside the home’s foundation; Costs to locate, access, or install cleanouts   Drain line stoppages due to tree roots  
Water Heater Covered All components & parts including tankless models Fully covered including failure due to sediment build up Fully covered including flues, gas or electric connections All components & parts
Water Heater Not Covered Flues, vents; Water dispensers Flues, vents Sediment build-up Flues, vents; Problems due to sediment; Drain pans
Water Softener Covered Not covered Not covered All component parts including wiring Not covered
Water Softener Not Covered     Rented units; Repair or Replacement due to mineral beds or deposits  
Sump Pump Covered Permanently installed, for ground water only Fully covered if within the home Primary sump pump for water Permanently installed, for storm water only
Sump Pump Not Covered   If within a crawl space; Backup power; If non-hardpiped installed Ejector or lift pumps for waste Backup power for sump pump
Whirlpool Tub Covered Pumps & motors Pumps, motors, controls, drains, accessible plumbing Pump & motor; Stopper assembly Pumps & motors
Whirlpool Tub Not Covered The tub itself The tub itself; Misuse; Tub enclosure, Tiles The tub itself The tub itself

Be Aware: Plumbing problems are very common with newly purchased homes.  Clogged drains, including the main drain line going to the City’s sewer line, rank at the top of the list of problems that occur soon after moving into a home.  If the home you’re going to buy is older, maybe unoccupied or occupied by only one person, there’s a good chance you’re going to have plumbing problems.  Typical problems are clogged drains and faucets that don’t flow well.  If you decide to buy one of these plans, then you’ll probably want to get a plan with good plumbing coverage that covers a broad range of problems.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Electric Covered All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans Parts & components within the perimeter of exterior walls; Main breaker panel, fuse box; Wiring, switches, receptacles; Ceiling fan motors & controls Service panels, fuse boxes; Wiring, outlets, receptacles, switches; Garage door opener; Exhaust fans; Ceiling fans; Light fixtures; Door bells; Security alarms All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans
Electric Not Covered Light fixtures; DC wiring; Low voltage systems; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload; Ceiling fans Exhaust fans; Door bells; DC wiring, low voltage systems, telephone systems; Exterior wiring, any wiring/components serving a detached structure; Fire, smoke & CO detectors; Light fixtures; Failures caused by inadequate wiring, overloads, surges, power failures Telephone wiring; Smoke alarms Light fixtures; CO alarms; Attic fans; DC wiring; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Covered Ceiling fan coverage available at additional cost Motors & controls of ceiling fans Covered up to $400 aggregate: motors, switches, controls, bearings, blades
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Not Covered   Bathroom exhaust fans; Whole-house exhaust fans   lighting
Central Vacuum Covered Coverage available at additional cost No coverage available Motor & relay switches up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Central Vacuum Not Covered     Central vac hoses & accessories ductwork, blockages, accessories
Security Alarm Covered No coverage available No coverage available Burglar & fire alarms up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Security Alarm Not Covered     Smoke alarms batteries, cameras, monitors
Door Bell Covered Coverage available at additional cost Not covered Covered if not part of an intercom system all components & parts
Door Bell Not Covered     Intercom systems door bells associated with intercom systems
Garage Door Opener Covered coverage available at additional cost 1 unit, parts & components Covered All components & parts for Garage Door Systems
Garage Door Opener Not Covered   Damage caused by door malfunctions; Garage door assemblies; Transmitters, keypads, batteries Garage door assembly Garage doors, chains, tracks, rollers, springs, remote devices

Be Aware: The electric system is pretty static (pun!) and not much can go wrong with it.  It doesn’t really wear out.  But I do like the idea that some of the plans cover the items that can wear out, such as fans and light fixtures.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Appliances Covered Built-in microwaves; Dishwashers; Garbage disposals; Ranges, ovens, cooktops; Parts & components affecting the operation of 1 of each (must be in the kitchen): refrigerator/freezer, built-in dishwasher, built-in microwave, range/oven/cooktop, range exhaust hood; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances, downdraft cooktops, convection ovens, double wall ovens Must Be In the Kitchen: oven/range, dishwasher, garbage disposal, built-in microwave, freezer; Up to $2,000 in aggregate for repairs to or replacement of high-end appliances All components & parts for kitchen appliances: Dishwasher (built-in or portable); Garbage disposal; Built-in microwave; Range, oven, cooktop; Up to $1,000 in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances
Appliances Not Covered Clocks, racks, handles, knobs Stand-alone freezer;  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers, self-cleaning mechanism Doors, handles, clocks, knobs, racks, shelves, etc.; TVs, computers, & monitors that are part of appliances Racks, baskets, shelves, doors, seals, handles, knobs, glass, clocks; Disposal jams due to bones & foreign objects
Refrigerator Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  Must be in the kitchen; All components & parts, including ice maker and ice/water dispensers Parts & components for one refrigerator or refrigerator/freezer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances Compressor, coil, fan motor, thermostat, wiring All components & parts, including integral freezer & ice maker
Refrigerator Not Covered    Ice maker, ice & beverage dispensers; Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers Ice maker; Beverage dispenser; Doors, handles, shelves, clocks, knobs, dials Racks, shelves, door seals, lights, handles; Beverage dispensers, water lines & valves to ice makers; Refrigerator not in the kitchen
Washer & Dryer Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  All components & parts 1 of each: Clothes washer & clothes dryer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances All component parts All components & parts
Washer & Dryer Not Covered Filters, screens, knobs, dials, venting, shelves, dispensers, damage to clothing  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers; Filters, screens; Venting Door, handles, clocks, knobs, dials, baskets, shelves, drains Knobs, dials, screens, soap dispensers, door seals; Venting

Be Aware: Appliances get used a lot and they break a lot.  Coverage for appliance repairs is a key benefit of these plans.  AHS does not include three of the most important appliances – refrigerator, washer, dryer – in their base coverage plan.  Instead, you have to pay extra to get those items covered.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Roof Leaks Covered No coverage available No coverage available Up to $750 to repair roof leaks, including shingles & built-up roofing up to $300 aggregate
Roof Leaks Not Covered     Damage from wind, ice, snow, acts of God; Leaks due to improper installation; Chimneys; Gutters & downspouts; Skylights & flashing; Secondary damage from leaks or re-roofing Leaks due to roof-mounted installations; Ice dams; Unattached garage roof; Wood underlayment; Flashing; Leaks due to missing/broken shingles; Damage from walking or standing on roof; Failure to maintain roof; Acts of God; Gutters

Be Aware: HSA and HWA say they’ll cover roof leaks, but when you read the exclusions you realize that pretty much everything that causes a roof leak is not covered.

Alternative Plans:            Both Xcel Energy and Center Point Energy offer service plans for appliances.  I’ll take a look at those plans in a future blog post.

It’s Getting Pretty Steamy In Here!

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Why Your Windows Steam Up and What You Can Do About It

Inside your home is a lot of moisture.  This moisture comes from the people inside your home, from cooking, washing, bathing and taking showers, even from plants.  Moisture even enters your home through the basement floor and foundation walls.  If your home is new, the lumber used to build your home releases a lot of moisture into your home as well.

During the summer you probably have your windows open which provides ventilation (interior air goes out, fresh air comes in).  Ventilation allows most of the moisture inside your home to go outside.  If it gets too hot and humid during the summer, you might turn on your air conditioning.  The air conditioner not only cools your home, but it also dehumidifies (removes moisture) the air inside your home.

When it’s cold outside, you shut your windows and keep them shut maybe for all winter long.  So now there’s no more ventilation taking place.  Also, when it’s cold outside, the glass area of your windows gets cold.

Moisture condenses on cold surfaces, such as cold glass.  When it’s cold outside, there’s also lots of moisture in your home, and that moisture readily condenses on your cold windows.  At first your windows may appear a little foggy.  Then after a while water is running down the inside of the windows and puddles up on the sash frames.  If the sash frames are made of wood, the water will ultimately cause the wood to turn back and deteriorate.  If the sash are made out of vinyl or aluminum, the water won’t do as much damage, but will result in a buildup of dirty crud on the sash frames.  If you don’t wipe up the water once in a while you’ll eventually see mildew and mold start to grow on your sash frames.  In the winter, the water that collects at the bottom of window sash can freeze, making it even more difficult to clean off the excess moisture.  The ice can also result in damage to your windows, in particular to the glass panes.  So it’s important to keep moisture from building up on your windows.

If the condensation and water on your windows bothers you – and it should – you’ll find yourself constantly grabbing a towel and wiping down your windows.  But that’s not a solution to the problem.

What Can You Do About This Problem?

The solution to this problem involves a two-pronged approach.  First, try to reduce the amount of moisture in your home, and secondly, increase the amount of ventilation.  To reduce moisture inside your home, limit the number of plants, the length of showers, the amount of water boiling for cooking.  If you have a humidifier on your furnace, turn it off (but then you have to tolerate drier air which can be uncomfortable).  People in your home contribute a lot of moisture to the interior environment.  If your home has several occupants, or if you have a lot of guests in your house, that can result in lots of moisture being introduced into your home.  As you can see it’s difficult to reduce the amount of moisture that’s created or introduced into your home.  So, the best solution is to manage the moisture content in your home by providing ventilation.-

One simple method of ventilation is to just open some windows once in a while.  Yes, that will chill down the interior temperature and will waste some heating energy, but it’ll allow significant amounts of moisture to leave your house.  A very important and effective measure you can take to reduce the amount of moisture in your home is to run your bathroom exhaust fans during and after showers and baths.  Make sure the exhaust fans are actually exhausting air to the outside of your home and not just into the attic.  And, if you don’t run your exhaust fans because they’re too noisy, go to the store and buy new ones.  The new ones today are much quieter than the old style fans.

Some range hoods have fans that just recirculate air through filters, but some have exhaust fans that actually exhaust air to the outside.  If your range hood is equipped with an exhaust fan, run that fan when you’re boiling water or running the dishwasher.  The same thing is important here – make sure the range hood is exhausted to the outside and not into your attic.

Most newer homes and even some older homes are equipped with heat-recovery ventilators.  These mechanisms provide fresh air ventilation throughout the home and are very effective in managing moisture in homes.

Another trick you might try is to go over to your thermostat and turn the fan to “on” instead of “auto”.  This will cause the furnace fan to run constantly (not just when the furnace is heating) which will result in more air moving past your windows, which in turn will help move moisture away from the windows.

The quality of the windows in your home comes into play with this problem.  Some windows are better than others and typically cost more.  Another way to put it is cheaper windows are not built as well as more expensive windows.  A superior quality feature of better windows is that they have insulated glass panes, and often the space between the glass panes is filled with argon, an inert gas that has a higher insulation value as compared to just plain air.  In other words, better windows provide a slightly higher insulation value than cheaper windows.  And that slightly higher insulating quality can often times result in the windows not fogging up in the winter.  But if your windows are in reasonably good condition, even if they fog up in the winter you’re probably not going to spend the money to replace them with more expensive windows.  But if your windows are in pretty bad condition, you’ll be very pleased with new ones.

You may find that just by paying special attention to the amount of moisture creating activities going on in your house and by introducing sufficient ventilation into your house, you’ll be able to reduce the amount of moisture in your home and ultimately the amount of condensation on your windows.  If none of these steps seem to help, then you might want to talk with an HVAC (heating, ventilation, & air conditioning) contractor about installing a ventilator in your home.

Get Your Home Ready For Winter!

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It’s Fall, the weather is very pleasant – not too hot, not too cold.  But soon the night time temperatures will start dipping into the freezing range, then the day time temperatures will follow, and Winter will be here.  There are a few things you need to do with your house before those freezing temperatures arrive.

Yard

  • Rake your leaves and get rid of them.  You don’t want a layer of leaves to stay on your grass over the winter.  It can cause your grass to grow poorly next spring or even die out completely.
  • Mow your grass one last time.  Then put a little Sta-Bil or Sea Foam in the mower gas tank and run the engine for a few minutes.

Water

  • Disconnect garden hoses from the exterior water faucets (sometimes called sillcocks or hose bibs).  Coil up the hoses and put them in your garage or garden shed.
  • Turn off the water supply to the exterior faucets and drain the water out of the water pipe.  In your basement you’ll find a shutoff valve on the water pipe going to each exterior water faucet.
  • If you have an underground lawn sprinkler system, turn off the water to the sprinklers, drain the pipe, and have the water in the system blown out with compressed air.

Roof

  • Clean the soffit vents – they’re located under the roof overhangs (eaves).  They can get clogged up with lint, dust, spider webs, paint, etc.  You can use a broom, or if you have a power air blower you can blow air along the soffits to loosen up the dirt and debris.
  • After all the leaves have fallen from your (and your neighbors’) trees, clean your gutters and downspouts.  Make sure water will run toward the downspouts and will freely flow out of the downspouts.  Then, make sure you have downspout extensions that direct the water away from your home.
  • Check roof vents, chimney, and furnace flue for bird nests or any other obstructions.  Clean them if necessary.

Air Conditioner

  • Clean away leaves, sticks, dirt, etc. from the AC unit.  You can do this by spraying water with a hose nozzle, or by vacuuming with a ShopVac, or just by using a broom and your hands.
  • Do Not Cover your air conditioner, it is not necessary and can cause damage.  If you want to place a cover on the top of the air conditioner, that’s okay, but not necessary.

 General Exterior

  • Seal any gaps around the house; check for loose or dried caulking around pipes, vent ducts, faucets, air conditioner refrigerant lines, etc.
  • Replace any damaged or worn weather stripping around windows and doors.
  • Clean the clothes dryer vent and make sure the flap closes easily.  Also, reach up into the dryer vent duct and clean it out – lots of lint can accumulate inside the duct and can cause your dryer to not work well and can even result in a fire!
  • Clean the air intake vent (called combustion air or makeup air).
  • If you have an air exchanger (heat recovery ventilator), clean the air intake vent.
  • Check the bathroom exhaust vent, make sure it’s not obstructed, clean out dust and debris, wasp nests, etc.
  • Check the kitchen exhaust vent, make sure it’s not obstructed, clean out dust and debris, wasp nests, etc.

Furnace

  • Have a professional furnace tune-up performed.  If you have Center Point Service Plus or Xcel Energy Home Smart, call them to do the furnace tune-up.  Otherwise, you can call any HVAC service company; they’ll charge you from $89 to $200, so shop and compare.
  • Clean or replace the furnace filter – this should be done at least every one to three months, depending on the type of filter.  The arrow (air flow) on the filter should point toward the furnace.

Smoke / CO Alarms

  • Smoke alarms should be located inside every bedroom, and one in a common area on every level.  Check them to make sure they work.  Replace the batteries if necessary.  If your smoke detectors are more than 10 years old they should be replaced.
  • CO (carbon monoxide) alarms should be located within ten feet of every sleeping room (not in furnace rooms, kitchens, or garages).  Check them to make sure they sound off.  Replace the batteries if necessary.  If your CO detectors are more than 5 years old they should be replaced.

Fireplace

  • If you have a wood burning fireplace, have the chimney cleaned and inspected if that hasn’t been done in the past couple years.
  • Make sure the spark arrestor and cap are installed property on the chimney.
  • If you have a gas fireplace, vacuum and clean it.  Vacuum the dust out of the bottom of it.  Clean the glass with regular window cleaner.

Getting Out Of Your Lease

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If you’re a renter, you probably have a Lease Agreement for your apartment.  The lease is a contract between you and your landlord or management company.  Your lease states how much rent you pay each month.  It also states the “Term” of your rental agreement – when the lease starts and when it stops.  The start date is typically on the first day of a month and the stop date – also called the “Termination Date” – is typically on the last day of a month.  Even if you move in after the first day of the month, you’ll still pay rent for that entire month.  Likewise, if you move out before the end of the month, you’ll still pay rent for the whole month.  Landlords usually want 12-month leases but you might be able to negotiate a shorter term.

Your lease agreement may simply state that when the termination date comes, the lease ends.  If you want to stay longer, you’d have to sign a new lease.  Or, your lease may state that when the termination date arrives the lease automatically converts into a month-to-month lease unless you or your landlord gives specific notice of termination or unless you sign a new lease.  If your lease ends and you haven’t signed a new lease agreement but you continue to live in your apartment and pay rent, then you’re on a month-to-month lease.

Giving Notice

Your lease agreement may require you to give your landlord notice that you will move out at the end of your lease term.  If this is the case, it will also state when that notice must be given.  It will require you to give 30-days (1 calendar month) or 60-days (2 calendar months) notice.  For instance, if your lease terminates on September 30 and you have to give 60-days notice, you would need to deliver written notice to your landlord or manager no later than July 31.  If your lease requires 30-days notice, you would need to deliver written notice no later than August 31.

Moving Out Early

You are responsible for paying your rent through the end of your lease agreement, whether you live in your apartment or somewhere else.  If your lease terminates on September 30, for instance, but you buy a home in June and move into it, you still have to pay your landlord for the rent you owe them for June, July, August, and September.  And you still have to give your landlord proper notice as required by your lease agreement.

Breaking Your Lease

What if your lease ends on September 30 but you want to buy a home on June 30?  You can do that, of course, but you would also be responsible for paying rent through the end of your lease – that would mean you would pay rent for July, August, and September, and you would also pay a mortgage payment in August and September.  That’s a lot of money getting paid out all at the same time!

Maybe your lease has a cancellation provision.  Maybe you can break your lease before the termination date.  Not all leases allow this.  To determine if you can break your lease before the termination date you need to read your lease thoroughly and understand what it says about early termination or cancellation.  If your lease allows early termination it will also state how much notice is required (30-days or 60-days).  If you want to terminate your lease on June 30 and you need to give 30-days notice, that means you need to deliver written notice to your landlord or management company no later than May 31.  If you have to give 60-days notice, that means no later than April 30.

If you break your lease early, will you have to pay a cancellation fee?  You might.  Read your lease to find out if you’ll be charged a cancellation fee and how much that fee will be.

Know What Your Lease Says

Not all leases are the same.  Just because your friend’s lease says something, that doesn’t mean your lease says the same thing.  Read your lease, know what it says.  If there’s something in it that doesn’t make sense to you, ask your landlord for clarification.

Do you have a roommate?  Did that person also sign the lease as a tenant?  If they did, and you move out early and quit paying your share of the rent, your roommate will be responsible for the whole rent, not just their half.

It’s a myth that you can automatically break your lease if you buy a home.  Maybe your lease allows you to do this, but it probably does not.  Read your lease to find out.

What if you move out early and your landlord rents the apartment to a new tenant before the end of your termination date?  Did you know that your landlord can’t collect rent from the new tenant and also from you for the same months?

Read your lease.  Know what it says about getting back your security deposit.  You don’t have to just walk away from that money – find out what it takes to get it back.

Resources For Renters

HOME Line is a non-profit service for renters, offering information, advice, and legal assistance

FHA 5-year ARM – Save $$ & Gain Equity

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ARM – just the thought of one ought to send you running!  Actually, the new FHA 5-year ARM (adjustable rate mortgage) might be a good deal for you.

The housing bust focused our attention on all the bad mortgages including ARMs that went up so high that homeowners could no longer afford their mortgage payments.  The message has been to stay away from ARMs – fixed rate is the only way to go.  But the new 5-year ARM may be better.

The ARM is actually a 30-year mortgage.  According to the Wells Fargo Home Mortgage web site on September 15, the starting rate for the ARM is 3.0%.  That start-rate will hold constant for the first 5 years.  But it’s what can happen after 5 years that makes home buyers nervous.  Sure, the rate can go up, but the most it can go up is 1.0% per year.  Over the life of the mortgage, throughout the whole 30 years, the rate can not go up any more than 5.0% more than the starting rate.  In other words, the highest it can ever go would be to 8.0%.

As we know, mortgage rates go up and down.  The ARM rate is not exception.  After year-5 it might go up for a while, then it might go down for a while, then up, then down, and so on.  If you keep it for 30 years, your rate will most certainly go up and down several times.  Even if it hits the maximum 8.0%, that doesn’t mean it’s going to stay at that rate.  It could just as well fall back down to 5.0% or 4.0% or even lower.

To determine if this ARM might be good for you, let’s assume a worst-case scenario.  The ARM starts off at 3.0% and it’ll hold that rate for 5 years.  Then, let’s assume the rate will increase to 4.0% for the next year.  That’s the highest it can go for year-6.  Then again, let’s assume for year-7 it goes up to 5.0%, and again another 1.0% the next year, and again for year-9 and one more time for year-10.  So at the beginning of year-10 the rate would be at 8.0%, the highest it can go.  And let’s say it goes that high and stays there for the whole rest of the mortgage.

Now let’s say you’re going to buy a $200,000 home with an FHA mortgage and you’re wondering if you should go with a fixed rate mortgage or this 5-year ARM.  Let’s compare the two options.  First, of course, you want to consider what your monthly mortgage payment would be.  The FHA fixed rate on the Wells Fargo web site today is 4.5%.  At that rate, on a $200,000 purchase, the principal and interest (P & I) payment would be $999.91 per month.  You would pay that same amount, month after month, for 360 month (30 years).  Not true for the ARM.  Since the starting rate is only 3.0 %, the P & I payment for the first 5 years would be $832.00, saving you $168 each month.  Then, according to our worst-case example, at the beginning of year-6 the payment would go up and it would go up again each year after that for 5 more years, then it would hold steady for the rest of the mortgage’s 30-year life.  This is what your payments would look like under this worst-case ARM example:

Year Interest Rate P & I Payment
1 thru 5 3.0% $832.00
6 4.0% $926.09
7 5.0% $1,022.36
8 6.0% $1,120.24
9 7.0% $1,219.22
10 thru 30 8.0%

$1,318.81

 

Remember, the fixed rate payment would be $999.91.  As you can see, through year-6 your P & I payment with the ARM would be substantially lower as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.  In year-7 the ARM payment goes slightly higher than the fixed rate payment.  By the end of year-6 if you could refinance at a fixed rate below 5.0% or if you were to sell your home, you’d definitely be money ahead.

What if you keep the ARM for more than 6 years – would this be bad?  Maybe, maybe not.  It depends on how long you keep the ARM.  At the end of 6 years, with the ARM, you would save nearly $11,000 as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.  However, as the chart below shows, if you keep the ARM past 7 years that savings diminishes very, very rapidly, and it’s gone completely after 10 years and 8 months.

Year P & I Payment Savings to Date
5 $832.00 $10,074
6 $926.09 $10,960
7 $1,022.36 $10,690
8 $1,120.24 $9,246
9 $1,219.22 $6,614
10 $1,318.81 $2,788

 

So again, if you keep the ARM for 6 or 7 years, you’d save money as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.  But what if you keep the ARM longer than 7 years, does it mean you’re making a terrible mistake?  Not necessarily.  If we analyze a little deeper and compare interest paid and equity gained between the fixed rate and the ARM, you’ll see that if you have the ARM for even 10 years, you would pay less total interest and gain more total equity as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.  So even after 10 years with the ARM, you’d still be money ahead as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.

  Interest Paid to Date

Equity to Date

End of Year ARM Fixed Rate ARM

Fixed Rate

5

$28,028

$42,545

$24,550

$20,107

6

$34,970

$50,559

$28,721

$24,092

7

$43,448

$58,389

$32,511

$28,260

8

$53,402

$66,029

$36,000

$32,620

9

$64,779

$73,467

$39,254

$37,180

10

$77,528

$80,697

$42,331

$41,950

11

$90,021

$87,707

$45,663

$46,938

12

$102,237

$94,488

$49,273

$52,156

13

$114,154

$101,029

$53,181

$57,614

14

$125,747

$107,320

$57,415

$63,322

15

$136,988

$113,348

$61,999

$69,292

 

Invest Your Savings!!

Here’s where the big payback comes into play.  For the first 5 years of the ARM, you’d save $167.91 per month.  Don’t squander that savings.  Instead, reinvest it in your mortgage as additional principal pay-down.  Each month, when you make your mortgage payment, add the $167.91 to your payment, so your actual total payment would be $999.91 – just as if you had the 4.5% fixed rate payment.  The big benefit is that the entire $167.91 goes toward paying down your principal loan amount.  That in turn reduces the interest amount for each subsequent payment, which in turn increases equity gain.  It also means that the P & I payment amount starting in year-6 would be only $868.79.  That’s a savings of $131.12 as compared to the fixed rate P & I amount.  So now, you would reinvest that saved amount (the $131.12) in your mortgage each month, which again results in reducing the principal amount, reducing the interest paid on the loan, and increasing equity.  And once again, it reduces the P & I payment for year-7.  It would be $949.54, which is $50.37 less than the fixed rate payment amount.  So, once again, reinvest that saved amount into your mortgage.  Here’s what you will have accomplished by the end of year-15:

Year Interest Rate P & I Payment Reinvest Monthly Interest Paid to Date Equity to Date
1 thru 5 3.0% $832.00 $167.91 $27,248 $35,405
6 4.0% $868.79 $131.12 $33,731 $40,920
7 5.0% $949.54 $50.37 $41,591 $45,059
8 6.0% $1,036.32 0.00 $50,800 $48,286
9 7.0% $1,127.88 0.00 $61,324 $51,296
10 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $73,118 $54,143
11 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $84,675 $57,226
12 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $95,976 $60,565
13 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $107,000 $64,181
14 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $117,724 $68,097
15 8.0% $1,220.01 0.00 $128,123 $72,338

 

What’s This All Mean??

All these charts and numbers and comparisons show that the FHA 5-year ARM is pretty attractive.  If you sell or refinance by the end of 6 or 7 years, you’re going to save more than $10,000.  You could put that money in your pocket and call yourself smart.  If you keep your ARM for even 10 years, you’re still money ahead.  You will have paid less interest and your equity will be greater, as compared to the fixed rate mortgage.

But, if you’re really smart, you’ll go with the ARM and reinvest your monthly saved amount.  Under that plan you could justify keeping the ARM for 13 to 15 years before refinancing or selling.  With the ARM you would have more equity built up, making a refinance less costly or making it easier to sell and purchase your next home.

These conclusions are based on a worst-case scenario of interest rates going up fast and staying up.  But as we know from history, rates will go up and they will go down.  When interest rates go up, you’d be protected by the 5% cap of the 5-year ARM.  When they go down, you’ll see your payment go down as well and your equity gain would hasten.

I don’t think this ARM is scary at all.  Give it some serious consideration.  Ask your loan officer to help you compare the ARM with the fixed rate mortgage relevant to your situation.  If you’d like me to run some numbers for you or if you’d like a copy of my spread sheets I used for this article, let me know.

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