No Origination Fee! Sweet or Who Cares?

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A loan officer from Advisor’s Mortgage sent me his rate sheet today.  It shows the rate for a 30-year FHA fixed rate mortgage at 4.75%.
At that rate, the mortgage company will not charge the borrower an origination fee, which is typically 1.0% of the base loan amount.  This sounds like a pretty good deal, but what does it really mean to a home buyer?

Here’s a quick analysis:  Let’s say you’re buying a home for $200,000 using a minimum down payment (3.5%) FHA mortgage.  The base loan would
be $193,000.  At 4.75% the principal, interest, and mortgage insurance payment would be $1,202.  The origination fee, calculated as 1% of the base loan, would be $1,930.

The origination fee is a fee charged to you by your lender as part of your closing costs.  It is a customary fee, along with other lender-fees such as a “Commitment Fee,” “Underwriting Fee,” “Document Prep Fee,” etc.  If you are paying your closing costs with money out of your pocket, then this offer saves you $1,930 in cash.  That’s a good deal for you as long as the lender isn’t increasing their  other normal fees or charging discount points to make up the difference.

But if your purchase agreement states that the seller is paying some or all of your closing costs, then this offer of no origination fee doesn’t have nearly as much beneficial punch to it.  We all know that when the seller pays your closing costs, you’re really paying your own closing costs because those closing costs are part of the price you’re paying for the home (see Who’s Your Sugar Daddy?).  So if your closing costs are $1,930 less, because you’re not paying an origination fee, then that’s $1,930 less that you have to add to the price of the home you want to buy.  In other words, you’re saving $1,930 off the
price of your home.  But that doesn’t really put $1,930 in your pocket – instead, it reduces your house payment by about $12 per month.  That’s nice, but it’s not huge.  It would take over 13 years for you to realize a savings of $1,930.

If the mortgage company is willing to give up 1% of the loan amount, what if instead of not charging an origination fee they used the 1% savings as a discount point and gave the buyer a lower interest rate?  A 1% discount point should result in a rate reduction of at least 0.25%.  So in this example, the discounted rate would be 4.5% instead of 4.75% which would reduce the monthly payment by almost $30.  That’s a heck of a lot better than a $12 savings.

The offer of no origination fee is significant – it’s worth 1.0% of your loan amount, or in this example of a $200,000 home it’s worth $1,930.  But, that value is really only realized if you are paying your own closing costs with cash out of your pocket.  Otherwise, if the seller is paying your closing costs, tell your loan officer that you’ll pay an origination fee but you want to the 1.0% savings to buy down your interest rate.  Either way, you’ll be money ahead with this offer.

Who’s Going To Pay Your Realtor?

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You are. But, but … I don’t have any money, you say.  Sure you do.  You have lots of money – you have down payment money and you have the ability to get a 30-year mortgage.  But, but … that’s for the house I want to buy, not for my Realtor.  Actually, some of it is for your Realtor.

How do Realtors get paid?

When a Seller lists his home for sale with a Listing Broker, the Seller and Broker negotiate a listing fee (commission).  The total listing fee is used to compensate both the Listing Broker and the broker who works for the Buyer (the Buyer’s Broker).  After the transaction closes, the Listing Broker sends a portion of the total listing commission to the Buyer’s Broker as compensation for their work in the transaction.

There is no law that governs the amount of compensation paid to a Buyer’s Broker.  It is determined by each Listing Broker and their client, the Seller.  The compensation for the Buyer’s Broker (also a commission) is called the “Cooperating Broker Compensation” and it is advertised in the home’s listing information in the RMLS database.

So let’s summarize:

Point #1 – The Buyer’s Broker gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller.  Minnesota Law is perfectly comfortable with this compensation arrangement.  It does not create any conflict of interest on the part of a Buyer’s Broker.

Point #2 – The amount of compensation that the Buyer’s Broker gets is determined by the Listing Broker and the Seller.  The Buyer’s Broker does not have any say in how much compensation they will get.

Point #3 – Follow the money: the Buyer’s Broker gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller.  Where does the seller get their money?  From the Buyer!  So the Buyer’s money is used to compensate the Buyer’s Broker.

Okay, what about your Agent who helped you buy your home – how does he get paid?  The Agent who helped you buy your home is a Buyer’s Agent and he works for a Broker – specifically, he works for the Buyer’s Broker who was compensated by the Listing Broker.  The Buyer’s Broker and your Agent divide that compensation.  Your Agent gets some and the Buyer’s Broker keeps some.  So in the end, your Buyer’s Agent gets paid by the Buyer’s Broker, who gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller, who gets their money from YOU.

In a rather indirect way, you compensate your agent.  But no matter how indirect this process may be, the Law recognizes that it’s your money that pays your Agent, and because of that your Buyer’s Agent is required – by Law – to disclose to you how much compensation his Broker will get when you buy a home.  And he is required to disclose this to you before you write a purchase agreement for a home.

Your Agent’s compensation is in the price of the home you buy.  So every month for the next 30 years, every time you pay your mortgage payment, a little bit of that payment goes toward paying your Agent.  So you should expect to get 360 “Thank You” cards from your Agent!

Just Exactly What Is The MLS?

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The Regional Multiple Listing Service (RMLS) is a way that competing real estate companies share their inventories and conduct business with each other.  If a homeowner wants their home listed for sale on the RMLS they must contract for that service with a real
estate company.  That’s how real estate companies come to have “listings”.  When a home is listed for sale on the RMLS by one real estate company, it is immediately available to all real estate companies.  The RMLS then, is a huge database of homes for sale, homes that have sold, and homes that were for sale but did not sell.  The RMLS database is often just called the “MLS.”

There are two “layers” to the MLS.  A Member-layer for Realtors and a Public-layer.  Realtors can search the RMLS database using a broader array of search criteria than what’s available to the public.  And the information retrieved by Realtors is more detailed and more in depth than the information available to the public.

The Public-layer is created by real estate companies that have websites with “home search” functions.  They offer this “home search” service in an effort to capture the attention of potential customers.  On these websites the public can search for homes in the full MLS database.

It’s a great system.  It benefits sellers, buyers, listing brokers, and Buyer’s Brokers like me.  It allows listing brokers to put their inventory out there for any and all buyers to have access to.  As a buyer, you don’t have to contact each and every listing broker.  Instead, you can work with your Buyer’s Broker and still have access to the entire database of homes for sale on the MLS.

Where do I find the homes I show you? Once I know what you’re looking for, I enter those search criteria into the MLS database.  That gives me a list of homes – sometimes a list that’s too long to be practical.  So I’ll click through those homes and remove the ones that I absolutely know won’t work for you.  That will leave me with a little shorter list of homes.  Then I usually go take a look at those homes and check them out and select the best ones for you to see.

Should you search or should I search? I always search the RMLS database to find homes for my clients.  But if you want to search on a website also, that’s okay.  If you see a home that interests you or one that you want more information about, all you have to do is tell me the address (house number and street name) or the MLS Number.  Then I’ll look up the listing and be able to give you all the details about the home.

Can you find the same homes on the internet that I find in the RMLS database? Theoretically you should be able to find the very same homes when you search a public website as when I search the RMLS database.  But I can use more precise search criteria which often allows me to find more homes and better homes than my clients find through their searches.

Can you find homes that I can’t find? The website that you search gets all of its information from the RMLS.  So there is no way that you can find a home that I can’t find when I search the RMLS database.

Is it possible for me to miss a good home? Like any database, the information that is put into it governs the information that you get out of it.  So if listing agents correctly enter the information about their listings, then neither you nor I should miss any good homes when we search.

Is the information on the MLS absolutely correct?  NO! In fact, much of the information on the MLS is not accurate.  The address and the price are correct.  But the rest of the information needs to be verified by me, your Buyer’s Broker, and by you as well.  The MLS information points us in the right direction but it is definitely not the final word.  The only way to know for sure what a home is like is to actually go to that home and inspect it firsthand.

Another Reason To Buy A Home NOW

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In about 6 weeks it’s going to get more expensive to own a home if you’re a typical Twin Cities home buyer.  Starting in April the monthly mortgage insurance premium (MIP) for FHA mortgages is going up.  In its Mortgagee Letter 11-10 HUD says, “It is anticipated that this increase will have minimal impact on borrowers but will significantly strengthen the capital position of the MMIF (Mutual Mortgage Insurance Fund).”

Hmmm, let’s see about this “minimal impact.”

The median sales price in 2010 for “traditional” transactions (non-foreclosure or short sale) was $225,000.  A buyer purchasing at that price with an FHA mortgage (5.00%), buying today, will have a monthly payment (principal, interest, mortgage insurance) of $1,340.  But, starting in April, if interest rates remain the same as they are now (not likely), that payment will go up to $1,385 – an increase of $45 per month.  This is just for mortgage insurance – you don’t gain any equity for that extra $45; it doesn’t pay down your loan amount even one cent!

Washington, DC may think that $45 is a “minimal impact” but here in Minnesota $45 affects significant changes.  If you qualify for a $1,340 payment and a $225,000 home today, starting in April you will only be able to purchase a home that costs $217,500.  That’s a 3.3% drop in your purchasing capacity.  That may not seem like a very big number, but it can make a serious impact on your ability to compete for a nicer home or your ability to negotiate for the home you really want.

What about lower-priced buyers?  The median sales price in 2010 for foreclosed homes was $126,900.  A buyer purchasing today at that price with an FHA mortgage will have a monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance of $756.  Starting in April that payment will go up to $781 – a $25 increase.  Again, Washington is going to say, “hey, what’s 25 bucks?”  But $25 can buy a half-a-tank of gas to get you to work; it can buy some groceries or keep the bill collectors off your back.  If you qualify for a $756 payment and a home worth $126,900 today, starting in April you’re only going to qualify for a home worth $122,750 – another 3% drop in your purchasing capacity.

I’m not trying to make a big of a deal out of this “minimal impact” but it’s just one more thing that’s chipping away at your opportunity to get a good home at the lowest price and lowest rates we’ve had in years, and probably won’t have again for many, many years, if ever.

How Can You Beat This Payment Increase?  Get out there and find a home, NOW!  As long as you find a home and apply for your FHA mortgage before April you’ll beat the clock on this mortgage insurance increase.  Another Reason To Buy A Home NOW!

Tax Time!!

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It’s income tax time – “yay” if you’re going to get a refund – “boo” if you have to pay more taxes!

As you know, you have to file your 2010 federal and state income tax forms by April 15 of this year.  Now that you’re a home owner, you are entitled to a few special tax deductions.  What does tax deduction mean?  A tax deduction is subtracted from your gross income, which ends up reducing your tax liability.  So a tax deduction will result in a bigger refund (if you’re getting a refund) or it will result in you having to pay less to the IRS (if you have to pay more taxes than what were already deducted from your pay checks).  To claim tax deductions other than the standard deduction, you can’t use the short form 1040, you must use the full (long) Form 1040.  You will use Schedule A of Form 1040 to list all of your itemized deductions.

These are the home ownership expenses you can deduct on your taxes:

1)       The interest you pay every month on your mortgage

2)      The mortgage insurance you pay every month

3)      If you purchased your home in 2010, you may be able to deduct some of your closing costs and some of the upfront mortgage insurance premium

4)      The amount you paid in property taxes is deductible against your federal income taxes.

How much interest did you pay in 2010?  Your mortgage company will send you a Form 1098 (you should have received it already).  That form will show how much interest you paid on your mortgage in 2010.

The monthly mortgage insurance premiums (MIP) you paid in 2010 are deductible as an itemized deduction.  Look in Box 4 on Form 1098 – that will show you how much you paid for mortgage insurance.  Enter that total on Schedule A.

If you purchased your home in 2010 using an FHA mortgage (and in some cases even with an insured conventional mortgage), you paid an upfront mortgage insurance premium (UFMIP).  Some of that is also deductible against your taxes.  Figuring out how much of the UFMIP is deductible involves some calculations.  First, get out your closing papers and find your Settlement Statement (also called a HUD-1).  Look on Line 902 – that’s how much you paid at closing as an UFMIP.  Divide that amount by 84.  Then multiply that number by the number of months you have owned your home.  So for example, let’s say the amount on Line 902 of your Settlement Statement is $3,908.  Divide by 84, that equals 46.52.  Let’s say you closed in May 2010 – any date in May, it doesn’t matter.  For this tax calculation, that means you owned your home for 8 months.  Multiply 46.52 by 8, that equals 372.16.  Enter that total on Schedule A.

When you purchased your home in 2010 you were charged closing costs.  Part of the closing costs were fees charged by your lender.  One of those fees was a “loan origination fee” which probably was 1.0% of your loan amount.  That origination fee is called “points” and is a tax deduction you can list on Schedule A.

You can deduct the UFMIP and the origination fee even if the seller paid some or all of your closing costs.

To read all the instructions on what is deductible and how to show those deductions on your tax return, see IRS Publication 936 which you can find at this web site:  http://www.irs.gov/publications/p936/

Property taxes are deductible against your federal taxes.  Take a look at your tax statement from the County (if you can’t find it, look on the County web site).  It shows how much your 2010 property taxes were.  If you lived in your home the whole year, all of your property taxes are deductible.  If you only lived in your home for, say, 7 month, then divide your 2010 property tax amount by 12 and multiply by 7 – that’s how much you can deduct on your taxes.

If you’re going to have a professional tax preparer prepare your tax returns, then make sure you tell them you want to take these home owner tax deductions.  Take all your documents with you to your tax meeting (closing settlement statement, Form 1098).  If you have questions, call or email me.  I’m not a tax preparer or an accountant, but I might be able to help you figure out what your home owner tax deductions would be.

Good Luck, hope you get a BIG TAX REFUND!!!

Buy NOW or Buy LATER?

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Can you afford it?  We all ask ourselves that question these days.  In the grocery store: can we afford the salmon fillet now or should we wait and see if it goes on sale?  At Best Buy: can I afford that really cool big screen TV (meaning I’ll still be paying it off well after new technology has passed me by) or can I only afford this basic model (meaning I could actually write a check for it today)?  In these examples, the word “afford” means how much money can you part with and will you feel like you received good value in exchange for parting with that money?  In other words, how much money can you part with without it hurting, or if it does hurt, is it worth the pain?

Affording a home purchase is a more complex concept.  When you buy a home you’ll part with a lot of money up front, plus you’ll part with a significant amount of money each month for a long, long time.  And when considering a home purchase, you’re not the only one who is involved in the decision of how much you can afford.  Your mortgage company has a big say in just how much they believe you can afford to take on as a new mortgage debt.  So here the word “afford” means how much money do you have that you can part with now (the down payment) and how much monthly debt will you be allowed to take on for the next 30 years?

In real estate and home buying, we also use the concept of “affordability” when characterizing the prices of homes.  Real estate economists have developed a Housing Affordability Index (HAI) which takes into account home prices, mortgage interest rates, and incomes of would-be home buyers.  The actual HAI figure is arrived at through calculations that include some assumptions that may or may not apply to your situation, but what’s important is the change in the affordability index over time.

In recent months, here in the Twin Cities, the affordability index has gone up substantially from where it was just a few years ago.  Back in 2006 when prices were high, the affordability index was around 120 to 130.  Today, it’s up to almost 220, meaning more people are better able to afford to buy a home and they can afford a more expensive home than even back in 2006.  The obvious paradox is that when affordability was lower, more people did in fact buy homes, including homes that, as it turned out, they could not afford.  That was because lending requirements were much looser than they are now.  Today, with affordability very high, fewer people are buying homes, due to more stringent lending requirements and also due to would-be buyers being unsure about their jobs and the economy.

You’ve heard it many times lately:  this is a great time to buy a home.  Why are people saying that when the economy is in such bad shape?  It’s because of affordability.  Take a look at the three components of the affordability index.  Home Prices are very low compared to where they were 2 to 3 years ago.  And the short term outlook is that prices will remain flat or even go down more.  Mortgage interest rates are low – as low as they have been in generations.  Rates have moved up in the past month or so, but they still remain very low as compared to what they have been in the past 30 to 40 years.  Incomes are a little trickier in this affordability equation.  It’s true, many people do not have incomes right now because they don’t have jobs.  But for those people who are employed, their incomes have remained fairly stable or at least have not gone down too much during the recession.  Taking all three of these factors into account, homes are more affordable than they ever have been.

Buy Now or Wait?  This extremely high affordability is a green light to buy a home now.  If it’s the right time for you personally – stage of life, family situation, financial situation, etc. – then this is THE time to buy a home.  Waiting will likely cost you.  If the economy is on its way to rebounding like some economists suggest, then incomes will start going up, which will cause more people to want to buy homes, which in turn will put more demand on the supply of homes in the market, which will have a net effect of home prices going up.  Interest rates have already gone up in the past month or so, and if the economy shows any signs at all of improving, rates will go up even more, bringing affordability down.

Home prices are definitely the wild card in projecting where affordability will go in the near future.  Foreclosures, short sales, and low appraisals continue to put downward pressure on home prices.  Some real estate industry enthusiasts say that prices have hit bottom and will start increasing this year.  Others who are not so optimistic say we may see another 3% to as much as 10% drop in prices by the end of 2011.  Who’s right?  We won’t know until December!  But what if prices do go down by, say, 5% between now and September – how will that affect affordability?  Let’s crunch some numbers and see.

Let’s say you buy a home now.  We’ll say it’s a $200,000 home and you use an FHA mortgage at today’s rate of 4.50%.  The monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,132.43.

Now let’s say instead of buying this winter you wait and buy in September, and by then home prices have gone down another 5%.  Now your purchase price would be $190,000.  If rates stay the same as they are now, your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,075.81 – over $56 per month less.  Sounds pretty good.  But – interest rates are not likely to stay down where they are now.  It’s anybody’s guess where rates will be 9 months from now, but let’s say the going rate in September is 5.50%.  Now your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,188.96 – pretty much wiping out the savings from waiting.  Even if rates only go up one half of one percent between now and September, and prices still go down 5%, the monthly payment would be the same as if you purchased now.  So you’re not likely to even break even by waiting.  And what if the optimists are right?  What if prices do go up during the summer?  Interest rates are most likely going up as we move into 2011.  I think the risk that both prices and interest rates will go up is pretty high and in my opinion, it’s hard to come up with a good argument to wait much longer to buy a home.

Does all this convince you to buy now?  I’m trying to lay out the facts and some of the opinions, and I’ll admit, if you’re on the fence at all I’m trying to nudge you to go ahead and buy.  I don’t think you’ll get stung and I think you’ll very likely look back and be really glad you did buy this winter or early this spring.  And I’ll also admit that I’d sure like to see this economy get going and nothing is going to drive it forward like home purchases!

Minnesota Housing

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Minnesota Housing provides below-market interest rate loans to first time homebuyers.  Interest rates in general are low these days and MN Housing’s rates are even LOWER!

Also, Minnesota Housing provides downpayment and closing costs assistance to first time homebuyers.  The assistance money is in the form of an interest-free loan that has no monthly payment.

To qualify for a MN Housing loan your income does not have to be high – in fact, quite the opposite.  The loan programs are for home buyers with low to moderate incomes.

You do not have to have perfect credit, either.  Your credit has to be good enough to qualify for a basic FHA mortgage.

There are several details associated with these low interest loan progams, so the best way to find out if you can get one is to talk with a loan officer who specializes in working with them.  Only a few loan officers in the metro area work with MN Housing.  Call or email me and I’ll send you a list of the loan officers that I know who are well versed in Minnesota Housing loan programs.

Why Buy When You Can Rent?

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The luster of home ownership has certainly faded in the past couple years.  When home values were escalating non-stop a few years ago, the faster you could buy, the better.  Any home, just get one, don’t miss out.  The mindset then was the longer you wait the more it’ll cost because they’re all going up in price – forever.  Well, forever didn’t last and as we all know, values stopped going up, then dropped like a rock.

When values were going up any home was a good home to own, so it seemed.  Today, there are still good homes to own, but there are also homes you shouldn’t own.  Here’s what I think:  I think home buyers have wised up and they know every home is not a good investment.  Some homes will never go up in value again – for a few reasons.  One, if they lack functionality then they also lack value to today’s buyers.  Today’s buyers don’t necessarily place value on the things that buyers did earlier in this century.  For instance, just because a home has “old world charm” doesn’t make it a good home.  A lot of buyers today could care less about old world charm, especially if it comes at the cost of functionality.  The market demand for homes is not nearly as great as it was a few years back and buyers are being much more selective, as they should.

Secondly, some homes are so bad off – poor condition, obsolete design, obsolete components, etc. – that it would take way more money than they would ever be worth to get them into a desirable condition.  Third, today’s buyers realize (hopefully) that affording a home is more than just paying the monthly mortgage payment.  You have to take care of a home.  Maintain it, fix it, improve it.  And that costs a lot money and time.  Some homes are maintenance nightmares with endless problems that get worse every year.  This is especially true with older homes.  Why own a home that’s just a problem money pit?  Wouldn’t you be a lot better off to let some other guy own it and have to deal with all the problems, and you could just rent it?

This all leads to the decision many buyers are coming to:  Wait.  It makes no financial sense to put your money into a bad home.  If all you can afford is a home that’s in poor condition and would cost you a lot of money to fix it up, then you’re better off to rent.  You’d probably be able to rent a better home than you could purchase.  Then, when you can afford a better home, buy one.

Buying a bad home and spending all your money on it is not a path to being able to buy a better home later on.  That used to work when home values were going up every year and wages were also going up.  Back then, you could buy a “starter home”, sell it in a few short years and make a nice profit, and then use that profit and your higher income to buy a bigger, nicer home.  Today, home values are not going up and wages are certainly not going up.  So the home you buy today is not a stepping stone to your next better home.  If you buy a “starter home” you may end up stuck in it for a long time.  You’ll probably be better off to wait so that the home you buy is in fact a better home that you can stay in for many years.

Conclusion:  If you can’t afford to buy a decent home that you can also afford to take care of and improve, then just rent.  If you can’t afford to own a home that is functional and comfortably accommodates your family and life style, then rent instead.  You’re not throwing your money away; you’re not “paying someone else’s mortgage.”  What you’re doing is not throwing your hard-earned money into a hole where it will be lost forever.

How Much Money Do You Need To Purchase A Home?

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Not much, compared to what you are purchasing – a home worth $150,000 to over $200,000.  Let’s look at the individual costs for acquiring a home:

Down Payment:     The lowest down payment requirement is Zero – no money down.  And it’s actually from a very reputable source – Minnesota Housing.  The program is called “Affordable Advantage” and allows borrowers to purchase a home with no down payment.  The loan is a fixed-rate, 30-year conventional mortgage.  You would have to put at least $1,000 of your own money into the transaction, which can go toward closing costs or be counted as a small down payment.

Some lenders, such as US Bank and Wells Fargo, offer conventional mortgages that require only 3.0% down.  Another great feature of these mortgages is that they do not have a mortgage insurance requirement which can save you well over $100 per month.

The most common mortgage today for first time home buyers is an FHA loan that requires a minimum down payment of 3.5% of the purchase price.  So if you bought a home for, say, $175,000, you would need a down payment of $6,125.  All of that down payment money can come from you (savings and/or gift money from a relative) or some of it can come from you and the rest from a down payment assistance program (also called entry cost assistance).  There are several such assistance programs throughout the Twin Cities, depending on where and what you are buying and sometimes even depending on where you work.  With most of the down payment assistance programs, the least amount of your own money you would need to have into a transaction would be $1,000.  Some programs require a minimum of $2,000 of your own money.

Closing Costs:     In addition to the down payment you will incur costs that are commonly called closing costs and prepaid expenses.  Several variables go into the final amount of those costs, but all total they amount to about 4% of the purchase price.  You can pay those out of your own funds (savings and/or entry cost assistance) or you can add them to the purchase price and have the seller pay them for you.  For instance, you may offer a seller $175,000 and ask the seller to pay 4% ($7,000) toward your closing costs.  That, effectively, is the same as offering the seller $168,000. If you paid your own closing costs in this example, you could buy the home for $168,000 – same net amount to the seller either way.  Most first time buyers ask the seller to pay their closing costs because they don`t have an extra $7,000 and it would take a long time to save it.  At 4.25% interest, using an FHA mortgage, the payment difference between a $175,000 purchase and a $168,000 purchase is about $39 per month including monthly mortgage insurance.

Out of Pocket:     In the buying process you will encounter some expenses that you’ll probably pay out of your pocket or checkbook.  When you make an offer on a place you’ll write an earnest money check, typically for around $1,000 but sometimes up to 2 or 3 percent of the offer amount.  That money comes back to you as a credit toward your down payment but you need to be able to write that check when you make the offer.  Also, you`ll get a home inspection which will cost you about $300 or so.  You`ll pay that to the home inspector at the time of the inspection.  And, you may need to pay your lender up front for your credit report (about $20) and for the appraisal (about $425).  So you can see, you need to have at least $2,000 and as much as $5,000 in your checking account just to get through the initial home buying steps.

How much money do you need to buy a home?  You can purchase an excellent home and have as little as $1,000 of your own money into the actual transaction.  But to get all the way through the home buying process, plan on spending at least a couple thousand dollars out of your checking account.  That’s not much when you consider what you’re purchasing!  It truly is a great time to buy a home!

Home Warranty Plans Compared

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In September of this year the Minnesota Association of Realtors issued a new Purchase Agreement (PA) document.  One of the new features of that new PA is found on lines 180-185.  It is titled “Home Protection/Warranty Plan” and advises sellers and buyers to investigate the various home protection/warranty plans available.  The PA requires the buyer and seller to state whether or not a plan will be obtained and who is going to pay for it.  Or, the parties can indicate that no plan will be part of the PA.

This is one Realtor who adamantly believes this addition to the PA is a mistake, was ill-conceived, and is very poorly presented.  The new PA calls these plans “home protection” and “warranty” plans, probably because that’s what the companies that sell them call them.  But these plans don’t protect homes one bit.  Nor are they warranties – they don’t guarantee a thing.  They are service plans.  They absorb some of the cost to repair or replace some items in a home that break.  The purchase agreement is not supposed to be a marketing tool for the companies that sell these plans – but now, that’s what it is.

If a seller decides to activate and pay for one of these plans when they put their home up for sale, and extends that plan to the buyer of their home, I’m all for that.  That seller has already decided that the cost of the plan is simply another selling expense and not a seller concession requested by a buyer.  It doesn’t count against the buyer in negotiations.  But the new PA baits buyers into erroneously thinking that they can request a plan and have the seller pay for it.  Even if the PA shows that the seller is going to pay for a plan, in reality the buyer pays.  If a seller agrees to pay for a plan that costs, say, $400, that means the seller would have accepted $400 less for their home if they didn’t have to pay for a plan.  So in this example, just like when a seller pays for a buyer’s closing costs, the price – not the value – of the home has been increased by $400.

If a buyer decides to purchase one of the plans on their own, it’s none of the seller’s business.  What if the buyer indicates on the PA that they are going to purchase a plan at a cost of $400 – now the seller knows the buyer has an extra $400 – maybe the seller wants that money instead of letting some home warranty company get it.

Well, you get the point – I don’t like the fact that this is in the new PA.

But, it is.  And as a buyer’s broker I decided I’d better get prepared to answer the inevitable question my clients will have: Which One Should I Get?  I can’t tell my clients that they should or shouldn’t buy a plan – it’s their money, their home, their risk.  Nor can I tell my clients which plan they should get.  I’ll give them copies of the sample contracts to read and review – well in advance of decision time.  But I know they’re not going to read them, there are too many other fun things to do when you’re looking for a home to buy.  In an effort to help my clients, I read and analyzed the four plans that I am familiar with.  The breakdown of what each has to offer follows below.  Read it, then decide for yourself.

These service plans are not insurance plans.  They don’t cover things like fire or water damage, or accidents.  However, when you’re deciding whether to buy one and which one to buy, in a way you’re going to think as though you’re buying insurance.  You’re going to observe the condition of the components of the home you want to buy and then you’re going to ask yourself, “How likely is it that this particular component is going to fail in the next 12 months?”  If the likelihood is high and the cost to fix it will be at least $500, then you may want to buy a plan that will cover that component.  If you think the likelihood is low that components in the home will fail during the next 12 months or if they do that the cost to fix them is less than $500, then you might decide the cost of a plan outweighs the risk.

The plan contracts are lengthy and consist of only fine print and long lists of exclusions, restrictions, and limitations.  Likewise, this blog post is long, very long.  But a topic like this cannot be covered without going into details, yet I don’t represent for a moment that this analysis is dead accurate or complete.  You still need to read each contract and evaluate them relative to the specific home you are going to buy.  It’ll take some time and your brain will hurt when you’re finished.  The plan contracts are much broader than what’s necessary for my Twin Cities clients.  So in an effort to make this analysis a little easier to digest, I pared down the information to better suit my typical home buyer clients.

Plan Names:       Here are the names of the four companies that I am familiar with that sell plans in Minnesota:  AHS, HMS, HSA, HWA.  Not much creativity in their names.  Maybe there’s a marketing reason to that, but it escapes me.

Residential Type:             All of the plans I evaluated are for existing (used, resale) single family residences, whether owner occupied or rental property.  AHS, HMS, and HWA single family plans also cover condos and townhomes.  HSA will cover condos, but for $30 less.  Their price list does not show townhome coverage as available.  The plan companies also offer plans for new homes, but I did not evaluate those plans.

Plans & Prices:   Each company offers one or more plans plus one or more additional options.  You could buy a basic plan or you could buy the whole enchilada, or something in between.  Because each plan has unique features, it’s impossible to do an apples-to-apples comparison.  Based upon my experiences with my buyers over the years, I compared plans that have the features that I’d guess my buyers would want.  These are the plans I evaluated:

AHS – Core Coverage Plan ($432) plus the Flexplan Option for refrigerator, washer, & dryer ($102).  The plan plus option total cost is $534.

HMS – offers a base plan for $425.  For $20 more they offer roof and foundation coverage, but their sample contract does not describe these coverages, so I did not evaluate them.  When I asked the local marketing rep for information about their plan, he told me that when my buyer purchases an HMS plan for $425, HMS will pay me $60, so I need to send them only $365.  I take that to mean that the real price is $365.  HMS has an interesting feature called the Preventative Maintenance Benefit – after the first 9 months, if you have not placed any claims, they will pay $100 toward an AC or heating system maintenance service.

HSA – offers one plan at two different prices, depending on the “deductible” amount.  If the deductible is $75, the plan costs $439.  If the deductible is $100, the plan costs $419.

HWA – offers three plans and several options.  I evaluated their Platinum plan which costs $400 and has a $100 service fee.

Service Call Fee:               If you have one of these plans, when you call for service on some item in your home, it will cost you a service fee.  Some of the plans call the fee a deductible, but it’s not really a deductible because you will be charged the service fee even if work is not performed.  Also, with most of the plans, you will pay the service fee to each trade contractor who is involved in the work.  For instance, if your furnace needs to be replaced and some electrical work needs to be done for the new furnace, you’ll pay a service fee to the heating contractor and also to the electrical contractor.  HMS does not do this.  They only charge one service fee of $100 per service call, no matter how many service contractors are involved.  AHS charges a $60 trade service fee for each service contractor.  HSA offers their plan at two different prices, depending on the service fee amount.  If the plan costs $439, then the service fee is $75.  If the plan costs $419, then the service fee is $100.  HWA also offers two service fees.  If you want to pay only a $50 fee you can, but the plan’s coverage is less than if you selected a plan that charges a $100 service fee.

Coverage Period:             Generally speaking these are 1-year plans.  They typically start on the date of closing and expire one year later.  The exception is HWA – their plan is a 13-month plan.

Coverage:           These plans are “repair or replace” plans.  The plans all promise to fix covered items, even if that means replacing them with new ones.  However, the plans do differ in exactly what they will replace items with.  AHS, HSA, and HWA all say they will replace with items of similar features, capacity, and efficiency.  HMS says it will replace with base models.  All of the plans say they reserve the right to offer a homeowner cash in lieu of repairing or replacing an item.

Conditions for Coverage:             The standard that must be met to qualify for coverage is that the item that needs service must be inoperable or malfunctioning due to normal wear and tear.  If it was damaged or misused, it’s not covered.  If the item malfunctions due to insufficient maintenance and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  Not so with the other three plans.  If the item malfunctions within the first 30 days of coverage due to rust or corrosion, and you have an AHS plan, you’re covered.  The other plans make you wait 30 days before rust coverage kicks in.  Three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be within the confines of the main foundation or garage.  The HMS plan simply says that an item must be in the home (no mention as to whether an item in the garage qualifies for coverage, so assume it does not).  And three of the plans state that, to be covered, an item must be working at the time the plan starts.  But the AHS plan does not draw that line.

Non-Covered Items:       This is important.  These plans are full of exclusions, limitations, and restrictions.  The plans list items that are covered and the wording is very specific.  Then, they go on to make a blanket statement of what is not covered: anything not stated as covered.  So the only items that are covered are the things that are specifically listed.  If it’s not listed, it’s not covered.  Also, most of the plans state that they won’t cover things like damages that result from a service contractor’s service or delays in service, or for faulty workmanship by a service contractor, even one that they selected.

What’s Not Covered?     With all the plans, coverage does not include routine maintenance, or defective items, or removal and disposal of old items, or damage due to accidents, fire, or freezing.  The AHS plan also states that damage due to mold, mildew, and pests is not covered.  Also not covered would be modifications that need to be done in order to accommodate a new replacement item.  And when replacing items with new ones, the plans won’t pay for upgrades or to match colors, models, dimensions, or brands.  With some of the plans, coverage for some exclusions can be purchased at additional costs.

Maximum Coverage Limits:         Unless it’s hidden someplace where I just couldn’t find it, the AHS contract makes no mention of coverage limits.  The other three plans definitely do.  The other three plans (HMS, HSA, HWA) limit the coverage per claim to $5,000.  HSA limits it lifetime coverage to $25,000 while HMS and HWA have $15,000 lifetime coverage limits.

Claims Process:                With all of the plans, if you experience a problem with a covered item in your home, you first need to call your plan company.  They all have toll-free numbers that are staffed 24/7.  The next step varies somewhat among the plan companies.  With AHS, a service contractor will contact you to set an appointment.  With HMS and HSA, you will contact a service contractor from a list of approved contractors.  HWA will select a service contractor for you.  What’s important is that you need to read about and be aware of the exact process set forth by your plan company.  If you don’t follow their process they probably will not cover the repairs.

Home Service Plans – Buyer Coverage for existing (used, resale) single family homes

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Heat Covered The main source of heat to the home or to a room including components, plenum, electrical, & ducts; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system 1 primary heating system: central air, hot water, or electric baseboard; Fan motors, burners, heat exchangers, thermostats; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system Forced air systems; Electric baseboard; Thermostats; Humidifiers; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system All components & parts necessary for the operation of the system; Up to $1,500 for hot water/steam heating system
Heat Not Covered Fireplaces; Wood burners; Air filters; Electronic air cleaners; Flues, vents, chimneys; Grills, registers; Humidifiers; Dehumidifiers; Garage heaters Fireplaces; Chimneys, flues; Asbestos insulated pipes; Humidifiers; Filters, electrostatic filters; Space heaters Fireplaces & wood burning equipment; Chimneys; Flue liners; Air filters & cleaners; Space heaters; HRVs Baseboard casings; Fireplaces; Wood stoves; Filters; Electronic air cleaners; Registers, grills; Flues, vents; Humidifiers; Space heaters
Ductwork Covered Leaks or breaks in ducts from heating or AC unit to attachment at registers/grills Accessible ductwork Ductwork from furnace to register Accessible ducts from heating unit to point of attachment at registers/grills
Ductwork Not Covered Registers, grills, insulation, dampers, improperly sized ducts Asbestos insulated ductwork; Inaccessible ductwork Improperly sized ductwork Registers/grills; Asbestos-insulated ducts; Flues & vents; Diagnostic testing

Be Aware: If the home you plan to buy has hot water or steam heat, as many homes do in the Twin Cities, the most these service plan companies will spend to fix or repair the system is $1,500.  That doesn’t go very far if you’re in need of a new boiler.  If your forced air heating system has an electronic air filter, also common in our area, it’s not covered.  Only HSA covers humidifiers attached to the furnace, which are common and often recommended for indoor comfort.

AHS HMS HSA HWA

Air Conditioning Covered

Ducted AC units Centrally ducted AC; Air handlers, fan motors, controls, compressors, condensers, coils, refrigerant, thermostats; Up to 3 wall units if primary cooling system Electric AC units; Repair if possible; If replacement required, will replace with 13 SEER equipment Ducted AC systems: all components & parts; Repair/replacement with 13 SEER equipment

Air Conditioning Not Covered

Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Improperly sized units Window units; condensate pumps; energy management systems Non-ducted wall & window ACs; Modifications for new AC equipment Window units; Non-ducted wall units; Condensate pumps; Improperly sized units

Be Aware: Window AC units are not covered, period.  HMS is the only plan that will cover wall units.  If the existing central AC unit can’t be repaired and instead needs to be replaced, federal law requires that the new AC meet at least 13 SEER efficiency specifications.  Some plans state that they will automatically install 13 SEER equipment at no additional cost.  Other plans don’t address the issue.  If the AC unit of the home you plan to buy looks pretty old, you may want to read this section of the plans very carefully, and ask questions, before you decide which plan to buy.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Plumbing Covered Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes within the main foundation, except if caused by plumbing stoppages; Garbage disposal; Shower & tub valves; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms Water supply lines; Drain & waste lines; Gas lines; Drain line routing; Faucets, shower heads, shower valves, tub & sink fixtures; Toilets Leaks & breaks of water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes; Toilet tanks, bowls, mechanisms; Tub & shower valves; Sump pumps
Plumbing Not Covered Collapse or damage to water, gas, drain, waste, vent pipes due to freezing or roots; Hose bibs; Faucets, sinks, bathtubs, showers; Toilet seats; Water softeners; Water filters; Flow restrictions in water lines All plumbing in the ground, foundation, or slab; All piping outside the perimeter of main foundation; Bath tubs; Laundry tubs; Sinks; Shower base & enclosures; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Exterior hose bibs; Faucets; Freeze damage;  Sprinkler systems; Sewer & water laterals; Water filters, purification; Water softeners Drain line stoppage due to roots; Shower base, enclosure, or doors; Sinks & tubs; Water filters; Sprinkler systems Leaks or breaks caused by freezing, settlement, or roots; Stoppage/clogs of drain/waste lines; Toilet lids & seats; Tubs & showers, shower enclosures, sinks, faucets, fixtures; Water softeners; Water flow restriction due to rust or sediment; Hose bibs
Plumbing Stoppages Covered Clearing of sink, bathtub, shower, toilet stoppages; Clearing of mainline drain & sewer stoppages; Clearing of lateral drain line stoppages Not covered Clogged drain routing (roto-rooter type cleaning) Available at an additional cost
Plumbing Stoppages Not Covered Stoppages due to roots or foreign objects; Stoppages due to collapsed, damaged, or broken drains or sewer lines outside the home’s foundation; Costs to locate, access, or install cleanouts   Drain line stoppages due to tree roots  
Water Heater Covered All components & parts including tankless models Fully covered including failure due to sediment build up Fully covered including flues, gas or electric connections All components & parts
Water Heater Not Covered Flues, vents; Water dispensers Flues, vents Sediment build-up Flues, vents; Problems due to sediment; Drain pans
Water Softener Covered Not covered Not covered All component parts including wiring Not covered
Water Softener Not Covered     Rented units; Repair or Replacement due to mineral beds or deposits  
Sump Pump Covered Permanently installed, for ground water only Fully covered if within the home Primary sump pump for water Permanently installed, for storm water only
Sump Pump Not Covered   If within a crawl space; Backup power; If non-hardpiped installed Ejector or lift pumps for waste Backup power for sump pump
Whirlpool Tub Covered Pumps & motors Pumps, motors, controls, drains, accessible plumbing Pump & motor; Stopper assembly Pumps & motors
Whirlpool Tub Not Covered The tub itself The tub itself; Misuse; Tub enclosure, Tiles The tub itself The tub itself

Be Aware: Plumbing problems are very common with newly purchased homes.  Clogged drains, including the main drain line going to the City’s sewer line, rank at the top of the list of problems that occur soon after moving into a home.  If the home you’re going to buy is older, maybe unoccupied or occupied by only one person, there’s a good chance you’re going to have plumbing problems.  Typical problems are clogged drains and faucets that don’t flow well.  If you decide to buy one of these plans, then you’ll probably want to get a plan with good plumbing coverage that covers a broad range of problems.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Electric Covered All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans Parts & components within the perimeter of exterior walls; Main breaker panel, fuse box; Wiring, switches, receptacles; Ceiling fan motors & controls Service panels, fuse boxes; Wiring, outlets, receptacles, switches; Garage door opener; Exhaust fans; Ceiling fans; Light fixtures; Door bells; Security alarms All components & parts including built-in exhaust fans
Electric Not Covered Light fixtures; DC wiring; Low voltage systems; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload; Ceiling fans Exhaust fans; Door bells; DC wiring, low voltage systems, telephone systems; Exterior wiring, any wiring/components serving a detached structure; Fire, smoke & CO detectors; Light fixtures; Failures caused by inadequate wiring, overloads, surges, power failures Telephone wiring; Smoke alarms Light fixtures; CO alarms; Attic fans; DC wiring; Inadequate wiring; Damage due to power failure or surges; Circuit overload
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Covered Ceiling fan coverage available at additional cost Motors & controls of ceiling fans Covered up to $400 aggregate: motors, switches, controls, bearings, blades
Ceiling Fans & Exhaust Fans Not Covered   Bathroom exhaust fans; Whole-house exhaust fans   lighting
Central Vacuum Covered Coverage available at additional cost No coverage available Motor & relay switches up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Central Vacuum Not Covered     Central vac hoses & accessories ductwork, blockages, accessories
Security Alarm Covered No coverage available No coverage available Burglar & fire alarms up to $400 aggregate: all components & parts
Security Alarm Not Covered     Smoke alarms batteries, cameras, monitors
Door Bell Covered Coverage available at additional cost Not covered Covered if not part of an intercom system all components & parts
Door Bell Not Covered     Intercom systems door bells associated with intercom systems
Garage Door Opener Covered coverage available at additional cost 1 unit, parts & components Covered All components & parts for Garage Door Systems
Garage Door Opener Not Covered   Damage caused by door malfunctions; Garage door assemblies; Transmitters, keypads, batteries Garage door assembly Garage doors, chains, tracks, rollers, springs, remote devices

Be Aware: The electric system is pretty static (pun!) and not much can go wrong with it.  It doesn’t really wear out.  But I do like the idea that some of the plans cover the items that can wear out, such as fans and light fixtures.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Appliances Covered Built-in microwaves; Dishwashers; Garbage disposals; Ranges, ovens, cooktops; Parts & components affecting the operation of 1 of each (must be in the kitchen): refrigerator/freezer, built-in dishwasher, built-in microwave, range/oven/cooktop, range exhaust hood; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances, downdraft cooktops, convection ovens, double wall ovens Must Be In the Kitchen: oven/range, dishwasher, garbage disposal, built-in microwave, freezer; Up to $2,000 in aggregate for repairs to or replacement of high-end appliances All components & parts for kitchen appliances: Dishwasher (built-in or portable); Garbage disposal; Built-in microwave; Range, oven, cooktop; Up to $1,000 in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances
Appliances Not Covered Clocks, racks, handles, knobs Stand-alone freezer;  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers, self-cleaning mechanism Doors, handles, clocks, knobs, racks, shelves, etc.; TVs, computers, & monitors that are part of appliances Racks, baskets, shelves, doors, seals, handles, knobs, glass, clocks; Disposal jams due to bones & foreign objects
Refrigerator Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  Must be in the kitchen; All components & parts, including ice maker and ice/water dispensers Parts & components for one refrigerator or refrigerator/freezer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances Compressor, coil, fan motor, thermostat, wiring All components & parts, including integral freezer & ice maker
Refrigerator Not Covered    Ice maker, ice & beverage dispensers; Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers Ice maker; Beverage dispenser; Doors, handles, shelves, clocks, knobs, dials Racks, shelves, door seals, lights, handles; Beverage dispensers, water lines & valves to ice makers; Refrigerator not in the kitchen
Washer & Dryer Covered Additional Flexplan Option:  All components & parts 1 of each: Clothes washer & clothes dryer; Up to $1,000 per appliance in aggregate for repairs to high-end appliances All component parts All components & parts
Washer & Dryer Not Covered Filters, screens, knobs, dials, venting, shelves, dispensers, damage to clothing  Doors, hinges, seals, handles, knobs, clocks, timers, shelves, glass, drawers; Filters, screens; Venting Door, handles, clocks, knobs, dials, baskets, shelves, drains Knobs, dials, screens, soap dispensers, door seals; Venting

Be Aware: Appliances get used a lot and they break a lot.  Coverage for appliance repairs is a key benefit of these plans.  AHS does not include three of the most important appliances – refrigerator, washer, dryer – in their base coverage plan.  Instead, you have to pay extra to get those items covered.

AHS HMS HSA HWA
Roof Leaks Covered No coverage available No coverage available Up to $750 to repair roof leaks, including shingles & built-up roofing up to $300 aggregate
Roof Leaks Not Covered     Damage from wind, ice, snow, acts of God; Leaks due to improper installation; Chimneys; Gutters & downspouts; Skylights & flashing; Secondary damage from leaks or re-roofing Leaks due to roof-mounted installations; Ice dams; Unattached garage roof; Wood underlayment; Flashing; Leaks due to missing/broken shingles; Damage from walking or standing on roof; Failure to maintain roof; Acts of God; Gutters

Be Aware: HSA and HWA say they’ll cover roof leaks, but when you read the exclusions you realize that pretty much everything that causes a roof leak is not covered.

Alternative Plans:            Both Xcel Energy and Center Point Energy offer service plans for appliances.  I’ll take a look at those plans in a future blog post.

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