I Do Not Practice – I Am Good!

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MultiCultural Realty is now Dakota Scott Realty.  Still me, Michael Harrell, broker and owner, doing my one-man real estate brokerage.  That allows me to focus my time and attention on my clients, not on managing other agents.  So I guess you’d have to say I have a real estate practice.

That reminds me of a story my brother once told me about a fellow who came into his business in California.  My brother didn’t recognize the fellow as a regular customer, so he greeted him and struck up a conversation.  The fellow spoke good English, but with a heavy accent, and English was obviously not his first language.  During their conversation my brother asked the fellow what he did – he said he was a doctor of some sort.  My brother said, “oh, do you have a practice?” to which the fellow immediately responded, “I do not practice.  I am good!”

Well, after over 20 years in real estate, I hope I am not practicing, I do think I am good, but I’ll be the first to say that I’m constantly learning – every day.  This business is not dull and boring; changes happen on a daily basis.

My job, and the value I bring to you as a client, is to keep up on those changes and help you navigate the home buying or home selling process successfully.  Being a sole practitioner and not an office manager allows me to give you the highest level of service possible, which, I believe, is what you are looking for in a real estate broker.

Prevent Fires – Clean Your Dryer Duct & Vent

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One of the most common causes of house fires is accumulated lint in clothes dryer filters and ducts that ignites from over-heating.  It is very important to keep your clothes dryer and its exhaust duct cleaned out.

Your Clothes Dryer is a pretty simple appliance, but it can cause devastating problems if you don’t maintain it properly.  When you dry your wet clothes, you take them out of the washing machine and put them into the dryer.  When you turn on the dryer, three things happen:  heat is produced (either from electric elements or from gas burners), a fan blows warm air into the dryer compartment, and the dryer drum goes around, tumbling the wet clothes so that the warm air gets evenly distributed around them.  Your dryer has an exhaust port usually  located down at the bottom of the back side.  That exhaust port should be connected to an exhaust duct, which in turn should be connected to an exhaust vent located on the exterior wall of your home.  The warm air that comes into the dryer picks up moisture and is blown outside the home through the exhaust vent.  As that warm, moist air leaves the dryer on its way to the exhaust vent, it first goes through the dryer’s lint filter and then travels through the exhaust duct.

In the process of drying wet clothes, your clothes dryer tumbles the wet clothes.  The tumbling action causes lint – very fine fuzzy stuff made from fabric fibers – to be released from your clothes.  The lint moves with the air that gets blown out of the dryer.  Some of the lint collects in the lint filter and a lot of the lint passes through or around the lint filter into the exhaust duct.  The lint is moist and heavy – it’s not like dry dust.  As it moves through the exhaust duct it sticks to the inside of the duct.  As some of the wet and heavy lint reaches the exhaust vent, some of it sticks to the inside of the vent and to the inside of the flapper.  Over time quite a lot of lint can accumulate inside the exhaust duct and on the inside of the vent flapper.  This is not good.  As more lint accumulates inside the duct and vent, the air moving through the duct and vent slows down and consequently does not adequately remove the moisture from your dryer.  Sometimes, so much lint accumulates on the inside of a vent flapper that the air trying to exit the vent can’t even blow the flapper open.  As the air flow through the duct and vent is reduced, you may find that it takes longer to dry your clothes.

You may think that taking longer to dry your clothes is a problem.  Actually it is a symptom of a much bigger problemlint accumulation in the exhaust duct.  Excessive lint accumulation can become a serious problem because lint is very ignitable – it catches fire very easily.  You can prove this to yourself by taking some lint out of the lint filter and placing it in a metal container, like an empty coffee can.  Then strike a match and place the flame near the lint.  You’ll see the lint catch fire immediately and burn very quickly.  Remember, your dryer has a heat source – red hot electric elements or a gas flame.  Your dryer is supposed to get hot, but not too hot.  If lint accumulates in the exhaust duct and reduces the flow of air out of the dryer, heat can build up inside the dryer.  If the heat gets too high, the excessive dryer lint can ignite, which would start a house fire.  The US Consumer Product Safety Commission has  posted an article about this fire hazard on their web site: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5022.html

This Is What You Should Do

1 –          Every time you put clothes in your dryer, before you start the dryer, pull out the lint filter and clean out the lint on the filter and in the filter compartment.

2 –          If you haven’t cleaned the dryer exhaust port in a while, you should to that.  Pull your dryer out from the wall – be careful not to kink the gas line.  Get behind the dryer and disconnect the exhaust duct from the exhaust port.  Then get your vacuum cleaner – a shop vac works really well for this – and suck up as much lint as you can see in the  exhaust port.  Stick the vacuum hose into the port as far as it will go, allowing it to suck out any lint that is inside  the port.

3 –          Now, while you’ve got the exhaust duct disconnected from the dryer, use your vacuum to suck out as much lint as possible from inside the duct.  Again, run the vacuum hose into the duct as far as it will reach.  If your exhaust  duct is long and made up of sections, you may need to separate the sections from each other and clean each section.  It may not be easy to disconnect the duct from the vent.  Sometimes that connection is very difficult to get to and work with.  If that’s the case with your situation, don’t worry – you can clean the vent from outside your home.

4 –          Now, go outside to where the exhaust vent is located.  Take your vacuum cleaner with you.  You’ll also need something like an old tooth brush or a long-handled screw driver – something you can use to reach up inside the vent with.  Clean away as much lint as possible from outside the vent, on both sides of the flapper, and if you can reach your hand into the duct, get in there and loosen up as much lint as possible.  CAUTION: before you do this, make sure there aren’t any wasps or bees in the vent or inside the duct.  After you have loosened up as much lint as possible inside the vent and duct, use your vacuum to suck it all out.

5 –          Put everything back together.  Before you do this, however, inspect the exhaust vent to make sure the flapper is working properly.  Replace the vent if necessary.  Then inspect the exhaust duct.  Make sure it’s not smashed or bent or has holes in it.  If so, install new duct material.  The best duct material to use is the rigid-wall type instead of the flexible type.

Before you do this maintenance, it’s a good idea to unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet.  If you have a gas dryer, it should not be necessary to disconnect the gas line.  If it looks like you need to disconnect the gas line in order to clean your exhaust duct, you should call a dryer service technician or your gas company for assistance.

This is just a basic home maintenance project but it’s a pretty important one.  It can prevent a house fire.

No Origination Fee! Sweet or Who Cares?

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A loan officer from Advisor’s Mortgage sent me his rate sheet today.  It shows the rate for a 30-year FHA fixed rate mortgage at 4.75%.
At that rate, the mortgage company will not charge the borrower an origination fee, which is typically 1.0% of the base loan amount.  This sounds like a pretty good deal, but what does it really mean to a home buyer?

Here’s a quick analysis:  Let’s say you’re buying a home for $200,000 using a minimum down payment (3.5%) FHA mortgage.  The base loan would
be $193,000.  At 4.75% the principal, interest, and mortgage insurance payment would be $1,202.  The origination fee, calculated as 1% of the base loan, would be $1,930.

The origination fee is a fee charged to you by your lender as part of your closing costs.  It is a customary fee, along with other lender-fees such as a “Commitment Fee,” “Underwriting Fee,” “Document Prep Fee,” etc.  If you are paying your closing costs with money out of your pocket, then this offer saves you $1,930 in cash.  That’s a good deal for you as long as the lender isn’t increasing their  other normal fees or charging discount points to make up the difference.

But if your purchase agreement states that the seller is paying some or all of your closing costs, then this offer of no origination fee doesn’t have nearly as much beneficial punch to it.  We all know that when the seller pays your closing costs, you’re really paying your own closing costs because those closing costs are part of the price you’re paying for the home (see Who’s Your Sugar Daddy?).  So if your closing costs are $1,930 less, because you’re not paying an origination fee, then that’s $1,930 less that you have to add to the price of the home you want to buy.  In other words, you’re saving $1,930 off the
price of your home.  But that doesn’t really put $1,930 in your pocket – instead, it reduces your house payment by about $12 per month.  That’s nice, but it’s not huge.  It would take over 13 years for you to realize a savings of $1,930.

If the mortgage company is willing to give up 1% of the loan amount, what if instead of not charging an origination fee they used the 1% savings as a discount point and gave the buyer a lower interest rate?  A 1% discount point should result in a rate reduction of at least 0.25%.  So in this example, the discounted rate would be 4.5% instead of 4.75% which would reduce the monthly payment by almost $30.  That’s a heck of a lot better than a $12 savings.

The offer of no origination fee is significant – it’s worth 1.0% of your loan amount, or in this example of a $200,000 home it’s worth $1,930.  But, that value is really only realized if you are paying your own closing costs with cash out of your pocket.  Otherwise, if the seller is paying your closing costs, tell your loan officer that you’ll pay an origination fee but you want to the 1.0% savings to buy down your interest rate.  Either way, you’ll be money ahead with this offer.

Who’s Going To Pay Your Realtor?

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You are. But, but … I don’t have any money, you say.  Sure you do.  You have lots of money – you have down payment money and you have the ability to get a 30-year mortgage.  But, but … that’s for the house I want to buy, not for my Realtor.  Actually, some of it is for your Realtor.

How do Realtors get paid?

When a Seller lists his home for sale with a Listing Broker, the Seller and Broker negotiate a listing fee (commission).  The total listing fee is used to compensate both the Listing Broker and the broker who works for the Buyer (the Buyer’s Broker).  After the transaction closes, the Listing Broker sends a portion of the total listing commission to the Buyer’s Broker as compensation for their work in the transaction.

There is no law that governs the amount of compensation paid to a Buyer’s Broker.  It is determined by each Listing Broker and their client, the Seller.  The compensation for the Buyer’s Broker (also a commission) is called the “Cooperating Broker Compensation” and it is advertised in the home’s listing information in the RMLS database.

So let’s summarize:

Point #1 – The Buyer’s Broker gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller.  Minnesota Law is perfectly comfortable with this compensation arrangement.  It does not create any conflict of interest on the part of a Buyer’s Broker.

Point #2 – The amount of compensation that the Buyer’s Broker gets is determined by the Listing Broker and the Seller.  The Buyer’s Broker does not have any say in how much compensation they will get.

Point #3 – Follow the money: the Buyer’s Broker gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller.  Where does the seller get their money?  From the Buyer!  So the Buyer’s money is used to compensate the Buyer’s Broker.

Okay, what about your Agent who helped you buy your home – how does he get paid?  The Agent who helped you buy your home is a Buyer’s Agent and he works for a Broker – specifically, he works for the Buyer’s Broker who was compensated by the Listing Broker.  The Buyer’s Broker and your Agent divide that compensation.  Your Agent gets some and the Buyer’s Broker keeps some.  So in the end, your Buyer’s Agent gets paid by the Buyer’s Broker, who gets compensated by the Listing Broker, who gets paid by the Seller, who gets their money from YOU.

In a rather indirect way, you compensate your agent.  But no matter how indirect this process may be, the Law recognizes that it’s your money that pays your Agent, and because of that your Buyer’s Agent is required – by Law – to disclose to you how much compensation his Broker will get when you buy a home.  And he is required to disclose this to you before you write a purchase agreement for a home.

Your Agent’s compensation is in the price of the home you buy.  So every month for the next 30 years, every time you pay your mortgage payment, a little bit of that payment goes toward paying your Agent.  So you should expect to get 360 “Thank You” cards from your Agent!

Just Exactly What Is The MLS?

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The Regional Multiple Listing Service (RMLS) is a way that competing real estate companies share their inventories and conduct business with each other.  If a homeowner wants their home listed for sale on the RMLS they must contract for that service with a real
estate company.  That’s how real estate companies come to have “listings”.  When a home is listed for sale on the RMLS by one real estate company, it is immediately available to all real estate companies.  The RMLS then, is a huge database of homes for sale, homes that have sold, and homes that were for sale but did not sell.  The RMLS database is often just called the “MLS.”

There are two “layers” to the MLS.  A Member-layer for Realtors and a Public-layer.  Realtors can search the RMLS database using a broader array of search criteria than what’s available to the public.  And the information retrieved by Realtors is more detailed and more in depth than the information available to the public.

The Public-layer is created by real estate companies that have websites with “home search” functions.  They offer this “home search” service in an effort to capture the attention of potential customers.  On these websites the public can search for homes in the full MLS database.

It’s a great system.  It benefits sellers, buyers, listing brokers, and Buyer’s Brokers like me.  It allows listing brokers to put their inventory out there for any and all buyers to have access to.  As a buyer, you don’t have to contact each and every listing broker.  Instead, you can work with your Buyer’s Broker and still have access to the entire database of homes for sale on the MLS.

Where do I find the homes I show you? Once I know what you’re looking for, I enter those search criteria into the MLS database.  That gives me a list of homes – sometimes a list that’s too long to be practical.  So I’ll click through those homes and remove the ones that I absolutely know won’t work for you.  That will leave me with a little shorter list of homes.  Then I usually go take a look at those homes and check them out and select the best ones for you to see.

Should you search or should I search? I always search the RMLS database to find homes for my clients.  But if you want to search on a website also, that’s okay.  If you see a home that interests you or one that you want more information about, all you have to do is tell me the address (house number and street name) or the MLS Number.  Then I’ll look up the listing and be able to give you all the details about the home.

Can you find the same homes on the internet that I find in the RMLS database? Theoretically you should be able to find the very same homes when you search a public website as when I search the RMLS database.  But I can use more precise search criteria which often allows me to find more homes and better homes than my clients find through their searches.

Can you find homes that I can’t find? The website that you search gets all of its information from the RMLS.  So there is no way that you can find a home that I can’t find when I search the RMLS database.

Is it possible for me to miss a good home? Like any database, the information that is put into it governs the information that you get out of it.  So if listing agents correctly enter the information about their listings, then neither you nor I should miss any good homes when we search.

Is the information on the MLS absolutely correct?  NO! In fact, much of the information on the MLS is not accurate.  The address and the price are correct.  But the rest of the information needs to be verified by me, your Buyer’s Broker, and by you as well.  The MLS information points us in the right direction but it is definitely not the final word.  The only way to know for sure what a home is like is to actually go to that home and inspect it firsthand.

Who Will Pay Your Closing Costs? Or – Who’s Your Sugar Daddy?

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If you’re going to buy a home you’re going to have to come up with three pots of money – 1) a down payment, 2) financing, and 3) money for closing costs.  The biggest chunk of money you’re going to need – the financing – will be covered by your mortgage.  And in order to get the mortgage you’re going to need down payment money.  FHA requires at least 3.5% of the purchase price as a down payment.  Some conventional mortgages only require 3.0% but most look for 5%, 10% or 20% down.

Where are you going to get your down payment money?  Some home buyers wait to buy a home until they have saved up enough for a down payment.  That’s admirable, but not always necessary.  You might qualify for down payment assistance, such as from Minnesota Housing, in which case the most you’ll need of your own money would be $1,000.  Another option could be “Gift Funds.”  You can’t borrow down payment money, but it can be given to you if you’re getting an FHA mortgage.  To learn more about this option, ask your loan officer about a “non-occupying co-borrower.”

There’s another chunk of money you’re going to need – quite likely even more than what you’ll need for a down payment – closing costs money.  First of all, what are closing costs?  Closing costs are a collection of fees, expenses, and pre-paid escrow items that you will incur in the purchase of your home.  Closing costs fluctuate with the price of the home, the kind and amount of financing, taxes and insurance amounts, lender fees, the title company you use, and the date of closing.  Depending on all these variables, closing costs typically total from 3% to 5% of the home’s selling price.  For instance, let’s say you want to purchase a home for $200,000 using an FHA mortgage, and you’re going to close on March 25.  Total closing costs will be about $7,600 (3.8% of the purchase price).

Where are you going to get your closing costs money?  Gift funds aren’t allowed and generally speaking, you can’t borrow money for closing cost.  You could save it up, but that might take a while.  Or, you can create the money.  Now, I didn’t say “make the money,” I said “create” it.

How can you create closing costs money?  Simple – give it to the seller and have the seller give it back to you.  In the lower- to mid-price ranges, this is the most common way that buyers come up with closing costs money.  Here’s how it works:  you offer the seller a purchase price and in that offer you state that you require the seller to pay a certain amount of money toward your closing costs.  The amount you ask for would be as close to the actual total amount of closing costs that you and your real estate agent can estimate.  If the seller agrees to this deal, you’ve got your closing costs covered.  Simple.

Okay, that looks pretty easy and straight-forward.  It looks like you negotiated for the seller to pay your closing costs; it looks like you got something out of the seller.  Yes you did, but you paid for it.  Let’s look deeper into your offer.  Let’s say you offered the seller $200,000 and required him to pay $7,600 toward your closing costs.  You are paying $200K for the home, but the seller is only getting $192,400.  This is called the seller’s net.  The reason the seller said “yes” to this deal is because a net of $192,400 satisfied him.  What if you would have offered the seller $192,400 and did not require him to pay anything toward your closing costs?  The seller would have said “yes” to that deal as well.  It’s a lower selling price but it’s the same net amount to the seller.  So no matter how much you offer the seller, if you require the seller to contribute toward your closing costs, then the seller would have always accepted a lower offer in which they did not contribute toward your closing costs.  In other words, if money for your closing costs is in the price of the home, it’s you who actually is paying for your closing costs.

Is this a smart thing to do?  Probably, because it gets you where you want to go – into a home sooner rather than later.  But if you’re the analytical type (like me), let’s break it down and look at your options.  Back to our example:  $200K purchase price, FHA 30-year mortgage at 4.75%, 3.5% down.  The monthly payment on this mortgage for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance is $1,162.  In that $200K price is $7,600 in closing costs.  If the purchase price were reduced to $192,400 then the monthly payment would be $1,117.  So it would cost you $45 per month to have the seller pay your closing costs.  That’s 7.1% annual interest which isn’t bad.

There are also some upfront costs associated with getting this $7,600 that you should be aware of.  As you go from a purchase price of $192,400 to $200,000 your down payment increases by $266, your upfront mortgage insurance increases by $73, mortgage registration tax goes up $18, your lender’s origination fee is $73 more, and you’ll pay $7 more in prepaid mortgage insurance.  So in addition to the $45/mo ($540 for the first year) you’re going to pay an additional $437 in cash and fees for the higher purchase price.  In year #1 that $7,600 will cost you $977 which is 12.86%.  Still not as much as credit card interest, but something to be aware of none the less.

That analysis may be more nit-picky than necessary.  But what’s important for you to realize is that by including closing costs in the price of your home, it’s going to cost you some additional upfront cash and fees, and because your purchase price is higher, it’s going to cost you more each month.

What are the advantages of having the seller pay your closing costs?  Most importantly to you, like I said earlier, if you don’t have the extra $7,600, it gets you into a home now rather than waiting until you save $7,600.  And it doesn’t really cost that much extra – a few hundred dollars up front and an extra $45 per month, in this example.  Another advantage to paying the higher price with closing costs included is that the home may not appraise at the higher value.  This could turn out to be to your advantage, as a buyer, because it would force the seller to consider selling the home at the lower appraised value (still including closing costs for you), thus saving you a few thousand dollars.

What are the disadvantages to you?  As I’ve said several times, you’re going to pay a higher price for your home, which means you will be paying more than what the home is worth.  In this market of declining home values, the idea of paying more than a home is worth should cause you to take pause.  You’re going to pay a higher monthly payment for the home, so again, it’s costing you more but it’s not worth more.  Another disadvantage is that paying a higher price drives up your mortgage insurance: upfront as well as monthly.  And mortgage insurance nets you nothing.  It doesn’t net you any additional equity in your home.  In our example here, at the higher purchase price, you’ll pay an additional $73 in upfront mortgage insurance plus an additional $72 per year (for about 10 years).

Where does the seller stand on this idea of paying your closing costs?  What are the advantages and disadvantages to them?  The biggest advantage is that it gets their home sold.  If you are a ready, willing, and able buyer, only limited by your lack of closing costs money, most sellers will eagerly pay your closing costs, as long as they get the net amount that they are satisfied with.  As far as disadvantages to sellers, they’ll pay a slightly higher deed tax ($3.40 per $1,000 of selling price, so in our example it would cost them an additional $26) and a slightly higher selling commission to their real estate company (about $400 in our example).  The biggest potential disadvantage of accepting a higher price for their home is that the home may not appraise at the higher price.  In that situation they may feel forced to reduce the selling price in order to get their home sold.

Closing costs is one of the three pots of money you’ll need when you buy a home.  You don’t have to wait to buy a home until you save up enough for both your down payment and closing costs.  You can create closing costs money by working cooperatively with the seller.  The seller gets their home sold and you get the home you want now.  Win-Win!

Another Reason To Buy A Home NOW

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In about 6 weeks it’s going to get more expensive to own a home if you’re a typical Twin Cities home buyer.  Starting in April the monthly mortgage insurance premium (MIP) for FHA mortgages is going up.  In its Mortgagee Letter 11-10 HUD says, “It is anticipated that this increase will have minimal impact on borrowers but will significantly strengthen the capital position of the MMIF (Mutual Mortgage Insurance Fund).”

Hmmm, let’s see about this “minimal impact.”

The median sales price in 2010 for “traditional” transactions (non-foreclosure or short sale) was $225,000.  A buyer purchasing at that price with an FHA mortgage (5.00%), buying today, will have a monthly payment (principal, interest, mortgage insurance) of $1,340.  But, starting in April, if interest rates remain the same as they are now (not likely), that payment will go up to $1,385 – an increase of $45 per month.  This is just for mortgage insurance – you don’t gain any equity for that extra $45; it doesn’t pay down your loan amount even one cent!

Washington, DC may think that $45 is a “minimal impact” but here in Minnesota $45 affects significant changes.  If you qualify for a $1,340 payment and a $225,000 home today, starting in April you will only be able to purchase a home that costs $217,500.  That’s a 3.3% drop in your purchasing capacity.  That may not seem like a very big number, but it can make a serious impact on your ability to compete for a nicer home or your ability to negotiate for the home you really want.

What about lower-priced buyers?  The median sales price in 2010 for foreclosed homes was $126,900.  A buyer purchasing today at that price with an FHA mortgage will have a monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance of $756.  Starting in April that payment will go up to $781 – a $25 increase.  Again, Washington is going to say, “hey, what’s 25 bucks?”  But $25 can buy a half-a-tank of gas to get you to work; it can buy some groceries or keep the bill collectors off your back.  If you qualify for a $756 payment and a home worth $126,900 today, starting in April you’re only going to qualify for a home worth $122,750 – another 3% drop in your purchasing capacity.

I’m not trying to make a big of a deal out of this “minimal impact” but it’s just one more thing that’s chipping away at your opportunity to get a good home at the lowest price and lowest rates we’ve had in years, and probably won’t have again for many, many years, if ever.

How Can You Beat This Payment Increase?  Get out there and find a home, NOW!  As long as you find a home and apply for your FHA mortgage before April you’ll beat the clock on this mortgage insurance increase.  Another Reason To Buy A Home NOW!

Tax Time!!

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It’s income tax time – “yay” if you’re going to get a refund – “boo” if you have to pay more taxes!

As you know, you have to file your 2010 federal and state income tax forms by April 15 of this year.  Now that you’re a home owner, you are entitled to a few special tax deductions.  What does tax deduction mean?  A tax deduction is subtracted from your gross income, which ends up reducing your tax liability.  So a tax deduction will result in a bigger refund (if you’re getting a refund) or it will result in you having to pay less to the IRS (if you have to pay more taxes than what were already deducted from your pay checks).  To claim tax deductions other than the standard deduction, you can’t use the short form 1040, you must use the full (long) Form 1040.  You will use Schedule A of Form 1040 to list all of your itemized deductions.

These are the home ownership expenses you can deduct on your taxes:

1)       The interest you pay every month on your mortgage

2)      The mortgage insurance you pay every month

3)      If you purchased your home in 2010, you may be able to deduct some of your closing costs and some of the upfront mortgage insurance premium

4)      The amount you paid in property taxes is deductible against your federal income taxes.

How much interest did you pay in 2010?  Your mortgage company will send you a Form 1098 (you should have received it already).  That form will show how much interest you paid on your mortgage in 2010.

The monthly mortgage insurance premiums (MIP) you paid in 2010 are deductible as an itemized deduction.  Look in Box 4 on Form 1098 – that will show you how much you paid for mortgage insurance.  Enter that total on Schedule A.

If you purchased your home in 2010 using an FHA mortgage (and in some cases even with an insured conventional mortgage), you paid an upfront mortgage insurance premium (UFMIP).  Some of that is also deductible against your taxes.  Figuring out how much of the UFMIP is deductible involves some calculations.  First, get out your closing papers and find your Settlement Statement (also called a HUD-1).  Look on Line 902 – that’s how much you paid at closing as an UFMIP.  Divide that amount by 84.  Then multiply that number by the number of months you have owned your home.  So for example, let’s say the amount on Line 902 of your Settlement Statement is $3,908.  Divide by 84, that equals 46.52.  Let’s say you closed in May 2010 – any date in May, it doesn’t matter.  For this tax calculation, that means you owned your home for 8 months.  Multiply 46.52 by 8, that equals 372.16.  Enter that total on Schedule A.

When you purchased your home in 2010 you were charged closing costs.  Part of the closing costs were fees charged by your lender.  One of those fees was a “loan origination fee” which probably was 1.0% of your loan amount.  That origination fee is called “points” and is a tax deduction you can list on Schedule A.

You can deduct the UFMIP and the origination fee even if the seller paid some or all of your closing costs.

To read all the instructions on what is deductible and how to show those deductions on your tax return, see IRS Publication 936 which you can find at this web site:  http://www.irs.gov/publications/p936/

Property taxes are deductible against your federal taxes.  Take a look at your tax statement from the County (if you can’t find it, look on the County web site).  It shows how much your 2010 property taxes were.  If you lived in your home the whole year, all of your property taxes are deductible.  If you only lived in your home for, say, 7 month, then divide your 2010 property tax amount by 12 and multiply by 7 – that’s how much you can deduct on your taxes.

If you’re going to have a professional tax preparer prepare your tax returns, then make sure you tell them you want to take these home owner tax deductions.  Take all your documents with you to your tax meeting (closing settlement statement, Form 1098).  If you have questions, call or email me.  I’m not a tax preparer or an accountant, but I might be able to help you figure out what your home owner tax deductions would be.

Good Luck, hope you get a BIG TAX REFUND!!!

Buy NOW or Buy LATER?

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Can you afford it?  We all ask ourselves that question these days.  In the grocery store: can we afford the salmon fillet now or should we wait and see if it goes on sale?  At Best Buy: can I afford that really cool big screen TV (meaning I’ll still be paying it off well after new technology has passed me by) or can I only afford this basic model (meaning I could actually write a check for it today)?  In these examples, the word “afford” means how much money can you part with and will you feel like you received good value in exchange for parting with that money?  In other words, how much money can you part with without it hurting, or if it does hurt, is it worth the pain?

Affording a home purchase is a more complex concept.  When you buy a home you’ll part with a lot of money up front, plus you’ll part with a significant amount of money each month for a long, long time.  And when considering a home purchase, you’re not the only one who is involved in the decision of how much you can afford.  Your mortgage company has a big say in just how much they believe you can afford to take on as a new mortgage debt.  So here the word “afford” means how much money do you have that you can part with now (the down payment) and how much monthly debt will you be allowed to take on for the next 30 years?

In real estate and home buying, we also use the concept of “affordability” when characterizing the prices of homes.  Real estate economists have developed a Housing Affordability Index (HAI) which takes into account home prices, mortgage interest rates, and incomes of would-be home buyers.  The actual HAI figure is arrived at through calculations that include some assumptions that may or may not apply to your situation, but what’s important is the change in the affordability index over time.

In recent months, here in the Twin Cities, the affordability index has gone up substantially from where it was just a few years ago.  Back in 2006 when prices were high, the affordability index was around 120 to 130.  Today, it’s up to almost 220, meaning more people are better able to afford to buy a home and they can afford a more expensive home than even back in 2006.  The obvious paradox is that when affordability was lower, more people did in fact buy homes, including homes that, as it turned out, they could not afford.  That was because lending requirements were much looser than they are now.  Today, with affordability very high, fewer people are buying homes, due to more stringent lending requirements and also due to would-be buyers being unsure about their jobs and the economy.

You’ve heard it many times lately:  this is a great time to buy a home.  Why are people saying that when the economy is in such bad shape?  It’s because of affordability.  Take a look at the three components of the affordability index.  Home Prices are very low compared to where they were 2 to 3 years ago.  And the short term outlook is that prices will remain flat or even go down more.  Mortgage interest rates are low – as low as they have been in generations.  Rates have moved up in the past month or so, but they still remain very low as compared to what they have been in the past 30 to 40 years.  Incomes are a little trickier in this affordability equation.  It’s true, many people do not have incomes right now because they don’t have jobs.  But for those people who are employed, their incomes have remained fairly stable or at least have not gone down too much during the recession.  Taking all three of these factors into account, homes are more affordable than they ever have been.

Buy Now or Wait?  This extremely high affordability is a green light to buy a home now.  If it’s the right time for you personally – stage of life, family situation, financial situation, etc. – then this is THE time to buy a home.  Waiting will likely cost you.  If the economy is on its way to rebounding like some economists suggest, then incomes will start going up, which will cause more people to want to buy homes, which in turn will put more demand on the supply of homes in the market, which will have a net effect of home prices going up.  Interest rates have already gone up in the past month or so, and if the economy shows any signs at all of improving, rates will go up even more, bringing affordability down.

Home prices are definitely the wild card in projecting where affordability will go in the near future.  Foreclosures, short sales, and low appraisals continue to put downward pressure on home prices.  Some real estate industry enthusiasts say that prices have hit bottom and will start increasing this year.  Others who are not so optimistic say we may see another 3% to as much as 10% drop in prices by the end of 2011.  Who’s right?  We won’t know until December!  But what if prices do go down by, say, 5% between now and September – how will that affect affordability?  Let’s crunch some numbers and see.

Let’s say you buy a home now.  We’ll say it’s a $200,000 home and you use an FHA mortgage at today’s rate of 4.50%.  The monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,132.43.

Now let’s say instead of buying this winter you wait and buy in September, and by then home prices have gone down another 5%.  Now your purchase price would be $190,000.  If rates stay the same as they are now, your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,075.81 – over $56 per month less.  Sounds pretty good.  But – interest rates are not likely to stay down where they are now.  It’s anybody’s guess where rates will be 9 months from now, but let’s say the going rate in September is 5.50%.  Now your monthly payment for principal, interest, and mortgage insurance would be $1,188.96 – pretty much wiping out the savings from waiting.  Even if rates only go up one half of one percent between now and September, and prices still go down 5%, the monthly payment would be the same as if you purchased now.  So you’re not likely to even break even by waiting.  And what if the optimists are right?  What if prices do go up during the summer?  Interest rates are most likely going up as we move into 2011.  I think the risk that both prices and interest rates will go up is pretty high and in my opinion, it’s hard to come up with a good argument to wait much longer to buy a home.

Does all this convince you to buy now?  I’m trying to lay out the facts and some of the opinions, and I’ll admit, if you’re on the fence at all I’m trying to nudge you to go ahead and buy.  I don’t think you’ll get stung and I think you’ll very likely look back and be really glad you did buy this winter or early this spring.  And I’ll also admit that I’d sure like to see this economy get going and nothing is going to drive it forward like home purchases!

Minnesota Housing

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Minnesota Housing provides below-market interest rate loans to first time homebuyers.  Interest rates in general are low these days and MN Housing’s rates are even LOWER!

Also, Minnesota Housing provides downpayment and closing costs assistance to first time homebuyers.  The assistance money is in the form of an interest-free loan that has no monthly payment.

To qualify for a MN Housing loan your income does not have to be high – in fact, quite the opposite.  The loan programs are for home buyers with low to moderate incomes.

You do not have to have perfect credit, either.  Your credit has to be good enough to qualify for a basic FHA mortgage.

There are several details associated with these low interest loan progams, so the best way to find out if you can get one is to talk with a loan officer who specializes in working with them.  Only a few loan officers in the metro area work with MN Housing.  Call or email me and I’ll send you a list of the loan officers that I know who are well versed in Minnesota Housing loan programs.

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